Swedish chef duo Adam Dahlberg and Albin Wessman have opened some of Stockholm’s most popular restaurants in recent years. It started with their fine dining restaurant Adam/Albin in 2012, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2022, followed by Solen – an 800-square-metre vibrant restaurant in the heart of the newly developed meatpacking district – and the izakaya-brasserie Misshumasshu in the historic Birger Jarlspassagen in Östermalm.
The duo’s most ambitious project so faris Adam Albin, a new restaurant overlooking the Royal Palace, the Royal Opera and the Swedish Parliament. It is an evolution of their original fine-dining concept, with a focus on seasonal Swedish produce, while still incorporating flavours from around the world.
Wallpaper* dines at Adam Albin, Stockholm
The mood: Eclectic mix
The chef duo has teamed up with Swedish design agency Halleroed. Led by Ruxandra and Christian Halleröd, the agency is known for its sleek fashion stores for brands such as Acne and Toteme. Marking their first restaurant project, the duo has worked to align the interior with the gastronomy.
Guests move through a sequence of rooms, including a lounge where dark wooden panels create an intimate setting, and a large dining room with arched windows that flood the space with light. Svenskt Tenn chairs, handblown glassware by Simon Klenell, and steak knives by Sámi craftsman Jon Tomas Utsi are just some of the carefully chosen objects. The open kitchen creates the feeling of a rustic home rather than a strict fine-dining restaurant, complete with Italian orange handmade tiles, stainless steel worktops and wooden chopping boards.
Overall, Halleroed aimed to create an eclectic mix – not something strictly Swedish or international, but rather a blend of styles. ‘It was important not to confine ourselves to any one country or style, but to work more intuitively,’ Ruxandra Halleröd explains. While classic white tablecloths are present, other elements, such as the 1960s and 70s aesthetic, add a sense of contrast. ‘We wanted to introduce small clashes in the interior,’ she says, noting that it reflects the chefs’ approach: ‘fine dining with classic rock – exuberant yet relaxed.’
The art, curated by local gallery Magnus Karlsson, features Swedish artists. Highlights include a sun in glazed porcelain by Klara Kristalova in the lounge, an oil painting of a large pink sofa by Anna Bjerger in the dining room, and Jockum Nordström’s collage Europa in the private chamber. Even the wine cellar has been given attention – a metal assemblage by Lisa Jonasson designed to withstand the cold and humid conditions.
The food: Swedish produce with panache
Having been able to build their dream kitchen, Dahlberg and Wessman have made sure to include the details they missed in their previous one. During Wallpaper*’s visit, the on-site pastry chef prepares items such as croissants filled with cheese and onion for snacks, bread buns, and chocolate sticks for coffee.
With one seasonal tasting menu and a selection menu – where guests choose two starters, one main course and one dessert – the kitchen is in constant flux. ‘It also depends on what produce is available,’ Wessman says, pointing to a box with quail birds currently on the menu. ‘We now place a greater emphasis on individual ingredients, allowing them to stand out on their own.’
One of the first courses features blue-shelled lobster with smoked reindeer and blackcurrant leaf ponzu, presented on handblown plates by Klenell. There is also grilled Swedish squid with Noir de Bigorre lard, chestnut honey ice cream with meringue and scallop and wagyu cooked in elderflower juice – altogether, food that leaves you wanting more. Spices and flavours such as cardamom, fig and leaf cilantro hint at the chef duo’s mixed sources of inspiration.
‘We have thought a lot about what a fine dining experience is,’ Dahlberg says. ‘For us, it’s about the pleasure of food – not the most precise techniques or perfection. We’ve tried to create an experience that goes beyond the food: it’s the chairs you sit on, the service you experience, and the overall ambience.’
Adam Albin is located at Regeringsgatan 2, 11 53 Stockholm, Sweden