The best hotels in Upstate New York, according to design insiders
From five-star wellness resorts to boutique gems, these are the top spots for an Empire State weekend escape
The Big Apple may be awash with some of the world's best luxury and boutique hotels, but if you're looking for a change of pace, Upstate New York beckons. Where is Upstate New York, exactly? While there's room for debate, most consider it to be everything in the Empire State that lies north and northwest of the New York City area. The region, which includes the Hudson Valley, the Catskills and the Finger Lakes, brims with natural beauty, vibrant communities, great food, and thriving creative scenes.
It's little wonder, then, that Upstate New York has become a hospitality hotbed as greenery-starved city-slickers flock northward in search of fresh air and a full-on reset. In fact, there are dozens of beautiful design-forward hotels to choose from – whether you're looking for something cosy and comforting, or lovely and luxurious. So we tapped a handful of in-the-know design and travel insiders to share their favourite haunts, from five-star mansion estates to boutique gems. Without further ado, the best hotels in Upstate New York.
Camptown Catskills (Leeds, New York)
Old-school motor lodges are making a 21st-century comeback, especially at Camptown Catskills. 'It's a fun and stylish update of a classic,' Rachel Cope, co-founder of Calico Wallpaper and Upper Hudson Valley resident, tells Wallpaper*. Kim Bucci and Ray Pirkle, of Rivertown Lodge fame, are the minds behind the bucolic getaway at the foot of the Catskill Mountains. Set inside forest-green, single-story buildings, the king-sized rooms feature burl wood side tables, seagrass wallpaper and crisp Frette linens. For a bit more privacy, the individually appointed log cabins are full of character with retro kitchenettes and wood-burning fireplaces. 'The restaurant, Casa Susanna, is a favorite.,' adds Cope. 'Be sure to order the house-made masa tortillas.'
There’s also a heated saltwater pool for daytime swims, an outdoor sauna, and a fire pit for drinks after the sun goes down.
Eastwind Oliverea Valley (Big Indian, New York)
For people who like the idea of camping, but prefer a fluffy mattress to a sleeping bag, Eastwind Oliverea Valley is a woodsy wonderland. 'The hospitality brand was started by Europeans who wanted to bring a decidedly Euro-centric holiday style to Americans—and that means the great outdoors,' says Jackie Caradonio, author of the forthcoming book The Inn Crowd.
Adventurous types can bunk up in mini A-frames just barely large enough to fit a king-size bed. Rustic in concept but refined in execution, private outhouses are outfitted with hand-fired ceramic tiles, skylights and Pendleton terry cloth ponchos. 'It gets more luxurious from there, with larger cabins that have lofts and even duplex suites,' says Caradonio.
No matter how cozy the accommodations, the whole point is to get outside. With direct access to the McKenley Hollow Trailhead, a hammock area, nightly bonfires, and alfresco dinners, it’s easy to get your fresh air fix.
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Glenmere Mansion (Chester, NY)
'When I need a quick Upstate hit, Glenmere Mansion is my first stop,' says Caradonio. 'It’s only 45 minutes door-to-door from my Manhattan apartment, but it feels a world –and an era – away.'
Situated on the gorgeous 150-acre estate of Robert Goelet, a New York real estate tycoon and naturalist, the hilltop mansion, built by Carrère and Hastings, the firm behind the Frick and the New York Public Library, now a Relais & Châteaux, has been painstakingly restored. Interiors by designer Scott Snyder channel the glamour and noble pageantry of its Gilded Age residents. Rooms drip with sumptuous fabrics, antiques, and art. Most have working fireplaces. Another plush perk, the Italian marble baths have heated floors. 'It also has a spa with a hammam, a pool surrounded by Renaissance-style sculptures and a cortile where you can sip Champagne to the sounds of a burbling fountain,' Caradonio adds.
Hotel Kinsley (Kingston, New York)
For dyed-in-the-wool New Yorkers for whom crossing the Tappan Zee Bridge feels like venturing to the sticks, Hotel Kinsley is a good compromise. On a map, it’s squarely in the country. But once there, you’ll realize it’s in the middle of Kingston. Tucked neatly inside four 19th-century buildings in the historic Stockade district, the fresh-faced, heritage-leaning hotel, with interiors by Studio McKinley – the creative minds behind Sant Ambroeus and the Surf Lodge – reinvents the classic Upstate aesthetic for a modern, seemingly more urbane audience. A departure from antlers and wall-to-wall plaid, the high-touch, low-key interiors are anchored by sleek wood furnishings, Dedar fabrics and art plucked from the owner’s personal collection. Some rooms have fireplaces for extra coziness, while others show off midcentury chairs or hand-woven rugs. Smeg refrigerators and white Frette linens are constants.
Hotel Lilien (Tannersville, New York)
An 1890s Victorian mansion and estate turned 18-key boutique inn in the town of Tannersville, not far from Hunter Mountain, Hotel Lilien is chock-full of charm that seems to defy era and destination. Lost Boys Hospitality Group collaborated with the San Francisco-based designers Field Theory to bring the project to life. Rather than be constrained by one style, the interiors blend bits and bobs. Stained glass windows, exposed brick, chequered tile and cherry oak paneling sit astride midcentury Alexander Calder exhibition posters and Japanese woodblock prints. The bar, with its expertly mixed cocktails, velvet stools and fireplace, invites lingering. No two rooms are the same. And none have televisions. Who needs to watch a show when the beauty of the Catskills – and a swimming pool – lies waiting outside?
The Henson (Hensonville, New York)
The Henson, according to Caradonio, is an Upstate success story, fuelled by Instagram. 'Ely and Danielle Franko, the couple behind the inn, started with a small collection of Airbnbs and graduated to this 16-room renovation project just around the corner from Windham Mountain,' explains Caradonio.
The rooms are modest, warm and tasteful – embodying the simple charm of an Upstate escape – but the real stars are the guest-only shared spaces downstairs. 'I love the honour bar full of natural wine and small-batch chocolates and the custom millwork shelves lined with hundreds of books,' notes Caradonio.
It’s the personal touches that turn a house into a home – or, in this case, a hotel into a home away from home. The wall of painted portraits came from Ely’s grandmother’s estate in Türkiye. Danielle arranges the flowers that greet guests at the entrance and adorn wooden tables in the living room. 'The wood-grilled oysters at the standout restaurant are not to be missed,' adds Caradonio.
The Maker (Hudson, New York)
Set in three historical buildings in Hudson, the Maker is where you go to be immersed in eclectic design – a melange of 19th-century, Belle Époque, art deco and mid-century periods – and sensuous scent. Every space speaks through a combination of visual and olfactory storytelling. 'It’s all about the impeccable details – from the jewel-tone velvets to the curated art. Even the bed linens are special,' says Rachel Cope, of Calico.
While you could spend an entire weekend sipping cocktails in the fire-warmed carriage house bar, dining at the observatory restaurant and snoozing soundly in the richly textured rooms, the location right in the middle of town means it’s convenient for walking and shopping for antiques on Warren Street.
The Six Bells Inn (Rosendale, New York)
On some occasions, a hotel will be so well-designed that it spurs a decor brand to satisfy devotees grabbing to bring the enviable aesthetic home. Rarely do things go the other way. The Six Bells Inn stands as the exception. What started as a small shop in Brooklyn, where Audrey Gelman curated everything from dinnerware to embroidered sheets, has become an 11-key hospitality haven. The Rosendale newcomer is not-so-quietly luring design cognoscenti and tapped-in tastemakers from the Big Apple. Designed by Adam Greco (whose past projects include The Ned London and Sommero in Oslo), the rooms celebrate the myriad charms of quaint countryside inns on both sides of the pond. Details such as fabric-draped four-poster beds, quilts, floral patterns and pine cladding nod to British, Swedish and American influences.
The Villa at Saugerties (Saugerties, New York)
The Villa at Saugerties is the epitome of IYKYK, according to Caradonio. With just four rooms, this tiny Mediterranean-style B&B sets the standard for Upstate luxury and personalized attention – and it’s all due to the owners. 'Amanda Zaslow is an interior designer and the genius behind every gorgeous detail, from the handmade Moroccan blankets to the salvaged wood beams and Venetian plasterwork,' she says.
Joe Moseley, a Food Network alum, whips up a divine breakfast every morning. The pool is surrounded by flowering gardens of hydrangea, clematis vines and Japanese maples. 'And just when you think it can’t get any better, here comes the boozy lemonade,' shares Caradonio. No wonder celebrities steal away for some countryside quietude – though you’ll never hear a peep about which famous faces have checked in.
Wildflower Farms, Auberge Resorts Collection (Gardiner, New York)
Nestled on 140 rolling acres in Gardiner, Wildflower Farms, Auberge Resorts Collection is a luxe retreat for communing with nature. 'From the moment you arrive, there’s a dramatic connection to the land,' says Andrew Kline, principal at the design and architecture firm Workshop/APD. 'The architecture blends seamlessly with the landscape. Gabled masses nod to the barns that are so prevalent in this part of the countryside.'
Ward + Gray bring a layered sensibility to the design, juxtaposing rustic, agrarian materials with elevated, residential design. The indoor/outdoor lobby offers sweeping views of the fields. The freestanding cabins and cottages translate the landscape through bold colors and natural wood. Guests will also find forested footpaths to wander, outdoor meadow hot tubs for soaking under a canopy of stars, and one of the best spas in Upstate New York.
Lindsay Cohn is a freelance travel journalist with nearly a decade of experience writing, editing and jet setting, and bylines in Travel + Leisure, Robb Report, Galerie, The Zoe Report, InsideHook, Hotels Above Par, and more. In between trips to sunny islands, cobbled villages and bustling cities, you can find her in Philadelphia with her husband and two young sons.
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