A local’s guide to Helsinki by Finnish-Karelian sculptor Anna Pesonen

Home, as the saying goes, is where the heart is, and for Finnish-Karelian multidisciplinary artist and sculptor Anna Pesonen, that place will always be Finland. Though her creative career has taken her through Paris, Tokyo, Mallorca, and now London, the pull of home is strong. Best known as a stylist, image director and consultant for clients including Maison Margiela, Nike, and Rimowa, Pesonen recently extended her practice into sculpture, debuting Discourse: a marble series unveiled at Design Miami 2023. Last year (2024), a residency at Alvar Aalto’s Paimio Sanatorium brought her closer to her roots.

Born in Järvenpää, just outside Helsinki, Pesonen describes the Finnish capital as the ‘alternative little sister’ to other Nordic cities. ‘What I love about Helsinki is that while it’s very international and aware of what’s happening elsewhere, it still has its own distinct spirit,’ she says. The long, dark winters, she notes, are what fuel Finland’s creative depth: ‘They give us the time and space to imagine alternative worlds.’

It’s the city’s modern yet steeped in tradition, social yet contemplative personality that Pesonen finds most inspiring. ‘You have this amazing mix of nature at your doorstep, but also world-class music at clubs and institutions. You can eat classic Finnish dishes in 1930s modernist restaurants, where the old spirit lingers, or enjoy just about any cuisine you like. The pace is different, everything feels close by, and that makes me feel free.’

Here, she shares her favourite addresses – just in time for Helsinki Design Week 2025 (5-14 September) and beyond.

What to see and do in Helsinki, Anna Pesonen’s tips

Where to eat and drink

Ateljee Bar

‘Now that I’m a tourist in my own homeland, I love the classics even though we also have fantastic new places. Climbing the snug spiral staircase to this rooftop bar with 360-degree views of the city is an experience in its own; you often bump into a friend. My favourite part is that the atmosphere doesn’t feel pompous like bars at a height usually do.’

Ateljee Bar is located at Solo Sokos Hotel Torni, Yrjönkatu 26, 00100 Helsinki, Finland.

Kosmos

‘A family-run institution since 1924, Kosmos used to be a cultural hub for artists, writers, and politicians alike. When I return to Helsinki, I gravitate towards these kinds of unapologetically old-school restaurants – those which feel untouched by trends and where traditional Finnish food, art, and design converge. It feels very Kaurismäki-esque, similar to Elite and Sea Horse (also in town).’

Kosmos is located at Kalevankatu 3, 00100 Helsinki, Finland.

Putte’s Bar & Pizza

‘A great, relaxed restaurant for delicious pizza right in the centre of Helsinki. The walls are full of art, and the downstairs area sometimes turns into a club. I always go hoping to bump into my friend Antto (Melasniemi): chef, artist and owner.’

Putte’s Bar & Pizza is located at Kalevankatu 6, 00100 Helsinki, Finland

What to do

Cinema Orion

‘This is one of Helsinki’s oldest cinemas. Its beautiful art deco theatre makes visiting worthwhile even during a short stay in Helsinki. Cinema Orion screens international arthouse films and showcases Finnish films that struggle to gain distribution elsewhere. They recently had a film programme curated for each star sign, which I loved.’

Cinema Orion is located at Eerikinkatu 15, 00100 Helsinki, Finland.

Kulttuurisauna

‘Saunas are a daily part of life for Finns, but I notice the essence of this ritual being diluted abroad – phones, chatter, or loud music aren’t part of it. Hearing the silence and letting your mind wander is what matters. Kulttuurisauna, a minimalist public sauna, offers a great way to experience authentic, modern Finnish sauna culture in the city centre. It sits on the edge of Merihaka – a 1970s brutalist housing district, which itself is worth a visit for any concrete lovers.’

Kulttuurisauna is located at Hakaniemenranta 17, 00530 Helsinki, Finland.

Sibelius Monument

‘In 1967, Eila Hiltunen (a fellow Finnish-Karelian sculptor) unveiled a sculpture for the late composer Jean Sibelius, which feels especially meaningful to me. Sibelius once lived by the same lake where I grew up, and he helped build the artist community that shaped my childhood. Nearby, there’s a cosy café and some buildings with amazing ‘funkkis’ decorations on their façades.’

Sibelius Monument is located at Sibeliuksen puisto, Mechelininkatu, 00250 Helsinki, Finland.

SIC

‘As part of the city’s Drifts Festival 2025, I’m participating in a group exhibition at SIC Gallery. My latest work, Heed the Echoes of the Forgotten, will be on view there until 10 September. The sculptor is dedicated to the preservation of kelkettely, an endangered Karelian vocal tradition.’

SIC is located at Vanha Helsingintie 24, 00700 Helsinki, Finland.

Temppeliaukio Church

'This round iconic church, built directly into solid bedrock, is one of my favourite spaces in Helsinki. I love the light, the organ and the violet-blue pews, which I used to think felt so out of place there. I used to live around the corner and often hung out on the rocks above the church; from there, you see its sculptural form from a new perspective.'

Temppeliaukio Church is located at Lutherinkatu 3, 00100 Helsinki, Finland.

Where to shop

Kruuna

‘Antique shop Kruuna offers a great selection of Finnish design, including ceramics and glassware from iconic designers like Tapio Wirkkala, as well as some internationally lesser-known artists such as Kyllikki Salmenhaara and Paavo Tynell.’

Kruuna is located at Maurinkatu 8-12, 00170 Helsinki, Finland.

Théhuone

‘I go to Théhuone to stock up on tea as they have a selection of 400 varieties. There’s also a small cafe with a tatami within the shop.’

Théhuone is located at Eerikinkatu 10, 00100 Helsinki, Finland.

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