’Chypre 21’: James Heeley’s Coty-channelling Mediterranean mix

We’ve been fans of the British-born, Brussels-based perfumer James Heeley for a long while, not only because he has come up with so many original fragrances, but also because of the quality of his design.
'Chypre 21', his newest fragrance, is a personal take on one of the greatest perfume ‘families’. The name – ‘Cyprus’ in French – comes from a fragrance released in 1917 by François Coty, one of the greatest perfumers of the 20th century. Coty’s 'Chypre' was inspired by the Mediterranean scents of citrus fruits, the resinous leaves of cistus and the woody-smelling tree lichen known as oakmoss. It’s an alluring olfactive formula, fresh but warm and slightly spicy; among the chypres are some of the most famous perfumes of all, from Guerlain’s 'Mitsouko' to Chanel’s 'Pour Monsieur' to Calvin Klein’s 'CKOne'.
Heeley’s 'Chypre 21' takes this classic combination but (in Heeley’s words) ‘plays down the very powdery, feminine notes often associated with old-fashioned chypres. It opens with a fresh, clean accord of bergamot, rosemary and petitgrain [extracted from the leaves and twigs of bitter-orange trees] accompanied by a light powdery note that develops into an oriental veil of rose, saffron, musk, patchouli, sandalwood and oakmoss.’
The results are intriguing, with an unusually sharp, slightly medicinal green note among the sunny Mediterranean fruits and herbs which could come from the rosemary but smells, to us, rather more like sage. Though it’s not as instantly striking as some of Heeley’s other fragrances, like 'Phoenicia' or 'Bubblegum Chic', it’s a typically considered addition to a range that’s always worth exploring.
INFORMATION
’Chypre 21’, €120 for 100ml. For more information, vist James Heeley’s website
Photography: Sabina Willis
-
Have fun with Le Ster’s engagement ring collection
Le Ster’s engagement rings encompass bold and fun forms
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Palm Heights hotel is a Caribbean getaway with a game-changing new spa
Palm Heights hotel in Grand Cayman is the Caribbean destination that everyone is talking about. Here’s why
By Tilly Macalister-Smith • Published
-
Kent Andreasen on failed memories, the fear of AI, and keeping things simple
Cape Town-based photographer Kent Andreasen features in ‘Through the lens’, our monthly series spotlighting Wallpaper* contributors
By Sophie Gladstone • Published
-
Exploring non-binary beauty at Dover Street Parfums Market in Paris
By Fiona Mahon • Last updated
-
DS & Durga opens first boutique in New York
By Rosa Bertoli • Last updated
-
Meet on Instagram: rules of modern-day collaboration according to Earl of East London
By Elly Parsons • Last updated
-
Commes des Garçons teases out the softer side of concrete with its latest fragrance
By Pei-Ru Keh • Last updated
-
Acqua di Parma gives a trio of opera inspired scents a triumphant voice
By Christopher Stocks • Last updated
-
Twisted logic: Thomas Heatherwick’s perfume bottles for Christian Louboutin turn it on
Thomas Heatherwick conjures an ambitious set of architectural glass vessels for Christian Louboutin’s debut fragrance line
By Ali Morris • Last updated
-
Olfactory overhaul: New York perfumer DS & Durga reveals four new scents
By Christopher Stocks • Last updated
-
Palladian perfumery: Bottega Veneta debuts new fragrance collection
By Emma Moore • Last updated