The chic stay-in shoe has never been so relevant, so it’s fortuitous that we can step into Rosetta Getty’s take on the classic Scandinavian clog, launched in collaboration with Danish footwear label Ecco. Crafted from sustainable leather, in a range of bold colourways, or swathed in snuggly shearling, these styles are set to ensure you stay at home in style and ease, the clog’s last is created using Ecco’s Fluidform Direct comfort technology. Slip into one asap.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Style findings: March dispatches from the Wallpaper* fashion team
Although the global pandemic currently has the West tightly in its grip, hope comes in the form of a beacon from the East, where recovery and reawakening is already afoot. The Hong Kong-based knitwear label Ply-Knits brings a similar message of optimism with its latest collection and lookbook, which was created at the end of Febuary when most of China was on lockdown. Despite the extended closure of founder Carolyn Yim’s family-owned factory in Dongguan, Yim combatted a low budget and restricted mobility to create a series of still-life images that relied on neotenic compositions to evoke feelings of warmth and empathy. Inspired by the works of Erwin Wurm, the lookbook features a cast of different characters assembled out of Ply-Knits’ latest cashmere capsule collection for Browns London. Ranging from familiar crewneck and turtleneck silhouettes, teamed with oversized sleeves, extra loose bodies and zigzag ribbed cuffs, the succinct collection packs a vibrant punch that reiterates that brighter times will soon be round the corner.
Writer: Pei-Ru Keh
Indoor workout wonders
Champion celebrated its 100th birthday last year. Established as a ‘Knickerbocker Knitting Company’ (maker of baggy-kneed trousers) by New York brothers Abraham and William Feinbloom, for many it now defines a certain kind of American athleticism and verve. Rick Owens debuted a capsule collection designed in collaboration with the brand at his Paris menswear show in June. Its unisex mesh shorts, oversized togas, reverse weave sweats and hooded windbreakers have a muscular opulence. ‘When I started my label in the nineties, I hand drew my logo as a cross between the Champion logo and a Jean Patou perfume label – they both had a similar vintage calligraphic flair,’ Owens says. ‘I wasn’t conscious of it then, but I see now how that balance has defined my ongoing aesthetic – a 1930s black and white movie version of both American uniform utility and European glam.’
Writer: Dal Chodha
We’re coming to value the great outdoors with even more vigour, so it’s natural that we’ve come into full bloom over de Gournay’s latest scenic collaboration with Erdem. Erdem Moralioglu – who has long drawn on the botanical world in his romantic vision of womanhood – looked to Hydrangea, Hollyhock, Irises, Chrysanthemum and Morning Glory for his de Gournay collaboration, and these florals are festooned across his hand-painted wallpaper designs, interspersed by a lattice of Chinoiserie-inspired branches and perched on by inquisitive sparrows, warblers, pheasant and egrets. The designs usher in a touch of interior design cheer, bringing a halcyon vision of the natural world into the home.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
A sleepy passage in London’s Soho has a new addition; an equally unassuming yet fertile two-floor space from Swedish menswear retailers Très Bien. Designed by Stockholm-based studio MP12, 23A Meard Street showcases new collections and exclusive items on a six week rotation. It is the company’s first shop outside of Malmö. Viewed from the street, the Georgian townhouse looks deceptively bare – MP12 have installed a partitioning wall that separates the interior from its quintessentially British façade. ‘The general impression is that Swedes strive for simplicity, but we wouldn’t necessarily want to call it minimalism,’ they say. ‘More than anything, the store design is driven by functionality in both expression and utilisation.’ The store was conceived as a modular space, composed of the same materials used across Sweden’s mid-century public housing. Co-founded by brothers Simon and Hannes Hogemann in 2006, Très Bien is known for its gallant mix of brands. ‘In order for this to be fully expressed, the space had to be neutral but distinct. It had to be adaptable too so that other brands can project their own aesthetic onto it whilst maintaining the impression of a Très Bien store,’ Hannes said.
Writer: Dal Chodha
The line between form and function is what marks out good design. Maison Martin Margiela’s former head of jewellery, the Belgian-born Stephanie D’heygere, launched her eponymous accessories label after a decade of working for a host of illustrious names and won the esteemed ANDAM Accessories Award in 2018. Her approach is playful and eccentric. For S/S 2020, D’heygere worked in collaboration with Longchamp. ‘Once I knew about the collaboration to commemorate the 30th anniversary of ANDAM, I realised how many people have the Pliage bag. You see people wearing it in the street everywhere…on a fancy lady, a teenager. It’s beyond age, gender and money,’ she says. Her brief was to reinterpret Longchamp’s omnipresent lightweight, waterproof foldaway tote as a piece of clothing, resulting in a quirky convertible poncho, which is on sale now. ‘It’s a very democratic bag and it was nice to do a different kind of collaboration, twisting the Pliage. It came very naturally. It was immediate and spontaneous. I had a Longchamp when I was a teen, my grandmother and mom have one. I kind of grew up around them.’
Writer: Dal Chodha
‘You think you know everything about her: a look, a streak of blonde hair over black glasses, a lanky silhouette that’s simultaneously masculine and very feminine, Monsieur Saint Laurent’s so-called ‘bipolar’ double.’ That’s how Saint Lauren’t Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello describes the timeless appeal of Betty Catroux, the object of the latest exhibition at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent. Curated by Vaccarello himself, the retrospective is an exploration of the designer’s subversive muse through her fashion collection. Born in Rio in 1945, model Betty Catroux met Saint Laurent at a café on Boulevard Montparnasse in 1967. It was, says Betty, ‘love at first sight’, and the two became inseparable. The exhibition features Catroux’s most iconic Saint Laurent pieces, including the Saharienne jacket, the Smoking and a selection of leather jackets and masculine suits. In Vaccarello’s words, ‘everything that gives this house its aura, you understand the magnitude of it when you meet Betty. She is living proof of the house’s timeless and dynamic nature.’
Betty Catroux Yves Saint Laurent: Féminin Singulier, until 11 October
Writer: Marta Represa
We’ve long had a soft spot for Porter’s functional nylon accessories, be it the Japanese label’s oversized and multi-pocketed Harness bag or handy and highly protective document holder. Now, the brand has teamed up with cult London label Aries (lovers of a cheeky slogan, tie-dye print and sportswear silhouette) on a series of signature Porter styles, embellished with its graphic, chain-link print. The pattern elevates Porter’s everyday accessories with a touch of bold bling, sure to cause a chain reaction wherever you choose to rock them.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
The optometrist’s office has, ironically, always suffered a little from an image problem – bright overhead lighting and regulation issue display cases come to mind. Happily, this only spurred British architects Studio Edwards to flex its creative muscle for Eyescan’s recent interior fit-out. Located in Melbourne’s tony Toorak neighbourhood, the elongated space is seamlessly bifurcated into two sections. The entrance opens into a retail space that displays over 300 pairs of frames, and, to the rear, the ceiling angles gently downwards to define the waiting area and consultation rooms. The language of the space, says lead architect Ben Edwards, takes its inspiration ‘from the glasses themselves, such as the armature movement and how the lenses are supported. I particularly wanted to blur the boundary between display, object, and furniture.’ And so, materials overlap – stone floor tiles with blackened raw steel frames, walnut joinery and furniture with powder-coated aluminium cabinets, the ensemble framed by exposed white brick walls. A central island morphs into a seat, the dispensing desk is a floating monolith, whilst shelves radiate soft ambient light. All the better to try on frames by the likes of Lool Eyewear, Persol, and Maui Jim; and in a space that is, we think, completely eye-catching.
Writer: Daven Wu
Terracotta coloured carpets mix with cognac leather interiors and mirrored fittings as Paco Rabanne open their new boutique on 54 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Turning to tech, the store will merge cyberspace sartorial experiences with high-end retail – offering both interactive, cutting-edge installations and the latest from Paco Rabanne’s menswear, womenswear and fragrance collections. The modern approach is apparent from the facade, where high-res screens replace the traditional window displays. Sprawling over three floors, each level offer customers a moment to pause and enter into a self-contained world of ready-to-wear and accessories, framed by shiny sci-fi surfaces and the maison’s iconic metal mesh lining the walls. We bet a visit will guarantee close encounters of the fashionable kind.
Writer: Josefin Forsberg
Veilance has paired a reductivist look with advanced technical construction since it was founded by Arc’teryx in 2009. The Vancouver-based performance label makes what it calls ‘a complete line of climate controlling systems.’ Its new Cambre collection reimagines the pervasive denim jean and jacket. ‘This is definitely an experiment for us, breaking the mould of the iconic blue jean,’ Creative Director Taka Kasuga says. The zip up jacket and slim pant are made from hollow-core polyester yarns that are thermo-regulating, moisture-wicking and quick-drying. ‘All of the seams and gussets are articulated to match the natural contours of the body, making the pieces much easier to move in. And, rather than stitching them together, we used taped seams that increase durability, cut down on weight and have a cleaner look overall.’ All you need is less.
Writer: Dal Chodha