Dries Van NotenPrint and décor are essential elements of the Dries Van Noten DNA. One collection can feature anything from 10 to 100 different prints. This season he used a random edit of stock photography of cityscapes and jungles, botanical sketches and a series of nightscapes shot in London, Beirut, Los Angeles and Las Vegas by the young London-born Marseille-based photographer James Reeve. Van Noten chops up these prints and patterns, takes them out of context and uses one image on the yoke, something else on the sleeves, front and back of a garment. By mixing the scale and colour (in this case plenty of monochrome) he constructs his own language of decoration. Spain provided reference for monochromatic toreador embroideries while shapes like swinging backs, ruffles, nipped-in waists and padded hips referenced 1950s couture. Often, however, this was executed in cotton - like the white gabardine swing back biker jacket - so it all felt new
Viktor & Rolf
High fashion is normally not a playground for big girls, so the sight of two Amazonian women towering over the Viktor & Rolf runway in Paris was a delightfully refreshing sight. At more than five metres high, the girls - a charming chanteuse duo called Brigitte - were stationed atop a pair of giant cascading chiffon skirts at the runway entrance, giving the impression of two singers wearing gowns the height of skyscrapers. The models made their entrance through strategic slits in the skirts, thus launching a costume-y show with fairy-tale flavour. Overstitched tulle was magnified by a scale of about a million, and became the unifying decorative theme on both the sensible (cropped jackets and A-line skirts) and the proposterous (tiered wedding-cake gowns and rufflemania dresses)
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