Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2020 Editor’s Picks
As the menswear crowd moves onto Milan, we round up the standout moments from the Italy’s fashion capital, from Alexander McQueen to Santoni, Sunnei to Church’s
Tod’s: Walter Chiapponi’s first collection as creative director at Tod’s revisited archetypical menswear staples, giving each a luxury makeover. Subtle leather and fine suede was expertly crafted to create a trench coat and driving jacket with streamline proportions. Making its debut was the Tod’s tuxedo — an elegantly cut jacket with exaggerated lapels and fluid flared trousers. Retro runners with gum soles and a new loafer style with thick tread accompanied the brands classic Gommino reworked in super soft calf and sheepskin.
Etro: Set against a backdrop of historical portrait paintings from the brands own art collection, models strode purposely in tan leather riding boots. Heritage paisley patterns were printed onto plush velvet overcoats, while ponchos emblazoned with carpet-like motifs exuded a bohemian spirt. Elsewhere, sharply tailored suits came decorated with metallic embellishments, others appeared with there seams trimmed in shinny micro studs. A leopard mohair double breasted jacket teamed with a silk shirt and skinny trousers came with serious rock credentials.
Serapian: Italian leather specialist Serapian are know for a unique technique that involves braiding soft nappa stripes by hand to create geometric patterns reminiscent of Byzantine mosaics and Japanese origami. For A/W 2020 the brand have launched a bespoke service that allows customers to create there own bag by choosing from 500 colours in a range of skins. Oversized totes, compact crossbody and clutch bags find there signature surfaces reinterpret in endless colour and pattern combinations all woven by the brands master artisans.
Santoni: The Italian accesories label presented its A/W 2020 collection on a supersized chessboard created by creative studio H5. Elongated lace-up and double monkstrap styles came in vivid blue, while penny loafers where elevated with corrugated rubber soles. The brands classic sneaker was given a sartorial update in aged leather with matching tread. Elsewhere, mountain boots came in tech fabrics fused with subtle calfskin.
Alexander McQueen: The McQueen man is underscored by a quiet extravaganza. For A/W 2020 a host of luxurious textile met arts and crafts metier, manifesting in seductive, elegant and special clothes. Sharp suiting and wool silk coats were printed with an illustration by British artist Henry Moore from 1928. Throughout the collection, an organic abstraction of Moore’s work was rendered in embroidered harnesses and pattern.
Neil Barrett: Models weaved in and out of angular silver shrink wrapped sculptures in a collection that saw the brand delve into its archive. Outerwear was key with Barrett playing with volume and proportion, alongside developing his signature hybrid garments. Aviator jackets were seamlessly spliced with tailored blazer elements, while generously cut duffle coats were given a new souped up shape.
Church’s: A meander through a pop up gentleman’s club revealed the latest collection from Church’s. A/W 2020 was displayed in glass cases and on podiums surrounded by chunky sofas, mismatched rugs and other curiosities at Milan’s The Yard hotel. The label has added a range of footwear including a new boot with a square toe that takes its inspiration from styles found in the archive dating back to the 1980s.
Sunnei: The buzzy label founded by Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo staged their show inside a TV studio, where the groovy collection was accompanied by an orchestra of light and sound. Everything came in typical Sunnei proportions; suiting was smart but unstuffy; trousers slouchy but had rigour. A/W 2020 included structured tailoring and a new drop crotch on fluid pants that twisted around the body. Also on show were a host of modish leather bags made in collaboration with Valextra.
No.21: This season No.21 celebrated its 10th anniversary. Designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua presented a collection that reworked men’s wardrobe staples by adding an erotic touch. Louche knitted jumpers appeared with there backs exposed, while others where cropped revealing the wearers torso. Elsewhere, elegantly tailored blazers were worn with sheer lace t-shirts and boxer shorts.
Jimmy Choo: ‘I was inspired by cultural exchange, cultural fluidity,’ creative director Sandra Choi said of her latest collection. The meeting of East and West was key – a conversation that goes both ways. A range of elaborate textile was used throughout. A new formal slipper inspired by marital arts plimsoles was reimagined, shown in jewelled jacquard and lustrous velvet suede. ‘Let creativity break down barriers and bring people together,’ Choi added.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label: To celebrate the 25th anniversary of Purple Label, Ralph Lauren reissued a capsule collection inspired by the designers personal suiting. Signature broad shouldered jackets with wide lapels where paired with double pleated trousers in classic chalk stripes and houndstooth. Elsewhere, an update on a white-tie tailcoat from the 1920s was engineered to create a lean elongated silhouette, while a military officer inspired coat was emblazoned with regal embroidery.