Milan Fashion Week A/W 2018 menswear editor’s picks
Missoni: Angela Missoni presented the brands AW 2018 collection in an installation created by Italian artist Loredana Longo. Antique Persian carpets lay on the floor with political statements burnt into there dense piles – ’Now is time to turn the page’ read one, ’Now is the time to act’ read another. Missoni cited the New York art scene of the 70s as the inspiration behind the collection – striped unstructured blazers, grandfather style cardigans and chunky jumpers came in a cacophony of clever colour combinations. Texture was also key with different knit techniques often being layered over each other for tactile effect.
Santoni: For the second season in a row, the luxury shoemakers Santoni treated guests to Sunday morning aperitivo! Street-cast gents were dotted around the historic El Tombon De San Marc bar sipping coffee, reading newspapers and playing cards, sporting the finest selection of handmade shoes and accessories. The performance was conceived by Angelo Flaccavento and Antonio Pippolini to complement the brand’s new illustrated campaign, which muses on the peacocking gentlemen who descend on the city during fashion week.
Rossignol x Wallpaper*: skiwear brand Rossignol teamed up with Wallpaper* on a capsule collection of functional separates made for the mountains as well as city life. Reversible puffer jackets in high performance fabrics were emblazoned with the Wallpaper* asterisk appearing like falling snowflakes. A sweatshirt boldly blended both brands logos in a hybrid insignia on its front, this also appeared on a pair of skies and beanie. Photography: Mirko Cecchi
Billionaire: The setting for the brand’s A/W 2018 show is very special to designer Philipp Plein, who acquired a majority stake in the brand in 2016. Guests were invited into the deep-red cavern of the William’s Le Roi gentleman’s club, the venue that hosted the first Milan show for Plein’s colossal namesake label back in 2012. An impressive cast of silver haired gentlemen sauntered the fleur-de-lis marked carpet wearing silk shirting, python trenches and full length minks. It was a concerto of outrageous opulence. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Giuseppe Zanotti: Designer Giuseppe Zanotti was inspired by day to night dressing this season in a collection of clashing footwear styles and fabrications. Standouts included plush velvet high-tops and crystal encrusted slippers.
Sunnei: instead of following the prescriptive show notes formula Sunnei decided to provide show attendees with a schemata to hint at its collection inspirations for A/W 2018. The abstract diagram fitted perfectly with the brand’s playful and irreverent approach to design – windbreakers and sweaters appeared with rucksacks attached to their backs, the hems of trousers were cut into fringes, quilted sleeveless extra-long gilets resembled sleeping bags. Sneakers and high-tops with thick bumper car soles completed the look. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Dirk Bikkembergs: Designer Lee Wood’s third collection for Dirk Bikkembergs was staged in a disused warehouse with mirrored columns outlining the catwalk. The industrial space set off the slick uniform-like mood. Boxy cropped jackets appeared with large patch pockets, lightweight duster coats billowed in movement. Trousers were either cut baggy or straight leg all worn with classic Bikkembergs motorcycle boots. A chunky shrunken cable knit jumper and patch work cardigan came in Bauhaus red, yellow and blue. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ermanno Scervino: the brand tuned into the anarchic spirit of punk this season. Clashing colourful tartans were spliced together to create patchwork drainpipe trousers and sharply tailored blazers. Classic houndstooth and herringbone fabrics were subverted in shrunken biker jackets, while jeans were distressed. Black leather brogues got tough with heavy soles and sneakers went wild with animal print inserts.
Nº 21: Alessandro Dell’Acqua presented his AW 2018 collection for Nº 21 in the brands new polished concrete event space. Models walked purposely in heavy-duty pull-on boots with sneaker-like soles. Protective wear was key – a voluminous satin bomber cocooned the wearer, while a puffer gilet alluded to armor. Another highlight was a padded jacket with huge fur hood that could be zipped up to high around the face. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Versace: there was a hint of highland fling to the brand’s A/W 2018 collection, which featured tailoring in a variety of colourful panelled tartans. Throw in a host of varsity references - like ‘Versace’ slogan knitted scarves, striped jackets and V-neck jumpers -swathes of tiger and zebra skin, baroque print velvet and oversized puffer jackets, and you’ve got the souped up Versace shopper for A/W 2018. Pizzaz and pow a must-have. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Jimmy Choo: creative director Sandra Choi proved that opposites do attract in a collection that combined unexpected materials with classic silhouettes. The brand’s signature sneakers were updated in metal-flecked tweed, while feather covered suede and plush velvet added a heady dose of opulence. Elsewhere a lace-up Derby appeared in gold mirror leather and a military inspired boot came with a python trimmed upper. This season also saw the launch of Jimmy Choo’s sunglasses collection.
DSquared²: This season the DSquared2 designers Dean and Dan Caten took to the Wild West for inspiration. Buffalo check jackets were layered over faded denim shirts, while straight leg trousers and patchwork jeans were fastened at the waist with double-D buckle belts. Other highlights included rhinestone encrusted and prairie flower embroidered shirts and a playful oversized knit featuring a Stetson wearing cowboy lassoing a bolting horse. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Cifonelli: creative director John Vizzone looked to the modern British gentleman for inspiration this season. Sharply tailored suits and topcoats were cut in classic Prince of Wales plaid, houndstooth checks and blown up herringbone patterns. For evening, an elegant white slim cut tuxedo was teamed with delicate velvet loafers and a paisley print dinner suit was added an air of opulence.
Church’s: stepping out at Church’s this season was an update of the ‘Pembrey’ penny loafer. The classic shoe got a punk makeover with flat mental studding giving it a youthful, anarchic edge.
Salle Privée: this is a brand that shuns seasonal trends, preferring to focus on the classic and timeless. Launching in 2016, the permanent collection features elegant wardrobe staples available all year round. However, this season founder Patrick Munsters freshened things up with the addition of new fabrics and colours. A sharply tailored double-breasted jacket came in heavily textured wool, while a signature tench was reimagined in a rust water resistant cotton.
Tod’s: the Milanese luxury house presented a collection of fine menswear staples, set in the grounds of the grand Villa Necchi Campiglio, giving each a luxury makeover. Techno and natural fabrics were seamlessly paired together - a nylon parka revealed a cosy shearling lining, while a bomber jacket closed with neat leather fastening. These were teamed with chunky cable knit jumpers in washed out hues. Pull on heavy duty boots were deceivingly lightweight and shiny leather came with thick gum soles.
Canali: the Italian tailoring powerhouse looked to both the city’s and man’s first awakening at dawn for the poetic inspiration behind its A/W 2018 collection. This culminated in a sleek collection of chiaroscuro blues, dark reds and greens, imagined in Canali’s signature luxurious fabrications, like mélanges, herringbone, houndstooth and cashmere-mink. There were parkas and pea coats, navy-inspired double breasted jackets and sharp suits. Spezzatura at its best, and luxurious pieces for brightening not just your morning, but your entire day.
Dondup: the dress codes adopted by students studying at British academic establishments Oxford and Cambridge, alongside rugby league kits formed the bases of Dondup’s AW 2018 collection. A rich camel duffel coat was worn over a sweater with an insignia reading ‘Academic Anarchic’. Elsewhere a oversized cable knit cardigan came with large ‘D’ on its chest. Extra long scarfs reading ‘Breaking the Rules’ and check nylon satchels looked campus cool.
Tomas Maier: The designer is a master of understated luxury, and his AW 2018 collection was no exception. The overall mood was relaxed yet elegant with a focus on fine fabrics and subtle details. There was a breezy outdoors feel in a nylon blouson covered in a check and palm tree camouflage print, while a super lightweight quilted windbreaker could be packed down to nothing for ease of travel. Elsewhere, relaxed fit trousers came in soft velvet corduroy and unstructured jackets in washed wools.
Geox: The brand continued to seamlessly mould technology and style in its AW 2018 collection. Featherweight sneakers came in crocodile printed leather and wool, while elegant Derbies and double-strap Monks came with waterproof and breathable soles.