Roberts Wood: Katie Roberts-Wood presented a collection of light cotton, silk and denim garments featuring the designer’s signature ruched details. For Dover Street Market London the designer created a suspended installation of translucent cut-away panels that allowed visitors to get a better view – and understanding – of the hand-linked, non-stitched technique that Roberts-Wood uses. Photography: Amanda Camenisch
Rejina Pyo: No stranger to the fashion press, the designer held her debut show at The Light in Euston, a minimalist events space with a splendid dome ceiling and rows of tiered wooden benches. Her nipped-in dresses with voluminous skirts have been a signature of street style starts for a couple of seasons. Pyo, who founded her brand in 2014, unveiled a collection of ruched smocks, corseted dresses, baggy silk tailoring and smart two pieces embellished with buttons made from semi precious stones. The burnt and organic tones of this feminine collection will certainly earn Pyo even more fans next season.
Awake: Since founding her brand in 2013, Awake’s Natalia Alaverdian has become known for her unusual and exaggerated shapes, as well as offbeat motifs (think Pokémon and oversized rabbit heads). For her highly anticipated runway show during London Fashion Week, Alaverdian unleashed deconstructed tailoring, crisp draped dresses and oversized outerwear. There were puffy sleeved trench coats, skirts that resembled a shirt tied back to front around the waist, and belts which looked like two hands cinching the waist, which riffed on the surrealism of Maison Martin Margiela.
Richard Quinn: The designer showed his debut London Fashion Week collection at Liberty’s soon to be revealed new womenswear floor. Blown-up and mismatched botanical prints from the Liberty London archive were ingeniously spliced together by Quinn to create a parade of fully floral looks. Standouts included a pair of trousers made of metallic foil and covered in clashing blooms, alongside a sickly sweet 60s floral dress with a collaged print train spilling from the back.
Holly Fulton: The spirit of collaboration was celebrated at the Holly Fulton presentation. Models wore sporty knitted tops and dresses made in partnership with John Smedley while accessories were executed by Cutler & Gross and Christian Louboutin. The graphic monochromatic set backdrop – a reference to the brands early collections – included collaborations with Moooi and Turnberry Rugs, and reminded us of the work of photographer Malick Sidibé.
Marine Serre: French designer Marine Serre, who won the 2017 LVMH Prize for Young Designers, was in London for the launch of her installation at Dover Street Market. Previously at Balenciaga, she left her job this year to focus on her own label which marries modern sportswear and the arts, from Iranian carpeting and 15th-century Flemish Masters to the work of Michaël Borremans, a Belgian painter and filmmaker. Serre borrowed artistic techniques too – for example, the stripes on a ball skirt were created by silk-screen printing, giving the traditional silhouette a modern finish.
Mark Lupfer: Against a cloud-like backdrop of white ballons, Markus Lupfer presented a collection that included floral twinsets, elegant shirt dresses and dangling earrings that would not look misplaced beside a Palm Springs pool.
Haizen Whang: From stripes to high pleated collars and black lace, Haizhen Wang paid tribute to Dutch traditional wear, albeit with a modern bent. Deviating from folklore, the garments had a sportive feel thanks to frayed denim, jogging elements and crystallised prints that shimmered throughout. Finished off with footwear designed in collaboration with Nike and Swarovski, the collection took a step in a flashy direction with customised sneakers adorned with crystals.
Emporio Armani: On a fashion merry-go-round, Emporio Armani travelled from Milan to London for its gargantuan 113-look show. The brand were in a celebratory mood, holding its men’s and women’s spring/summer 2018 show at Tobacco Dock in Wapping, in celebration of its newly renovated store on Bond Street. They even held an afterparty in the venue, with performances from A-ha and Disclosure. The clothes came in a cacophony of colours and prints – think colourful sea-creatures swimming across jacquard coats, frothy sequinned dresses paired with cabaret-style hats, crisp pinstripe tailoring and utility focused outerwear. Like the musical talent recruited for Emporio Armani’s celebrations, the collection, too, had something for everyone. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Emilia Wickstead: The designer presented her collection in a swish circular ballroom at the Four Season’s Hotel in Trinity Square. Wickstead is known for her overtly feminine designs, and boxes of cookies and sweet vodka cocktails nodded to her aesthetic. Her offering was big on bold silhouettes, with floral puffball dresses and inflated baby doll designs touching on the works of Balenciaga (a shape also seen in the collections of Molly Goddard and Mary Katrantzou). It was also a collection drenched in sexuality, with low straps and draping placing focus on the back, and voluminous transparent dresses revealing more than just a flash of skin.
Faustine Steinmetz: This season marked the first catwalk show for Faustine Steinmetz, who is known for reworking the everyday wardrobe. The designer’s latest collection was build on replicating the garments that almost everyone owns, such as a trench coat or your favourite old pair of jeans. The looks were shown in multiple iterations using artisanal fabrics produced by Steinmetz and her team. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Topshop: London’s buzzing nightlife took a sartorial turn on the Topshop catwalk. Glitzy earrings and metallic leathers, skinny trousers and oversized knits – think Madame Jojo’s meets photographer Corinne Day. The show climaxed with Topshop girls dressed in a variety of denim, each wearing a t-shirt emblazoned with their name. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Halpern: It’s been a busy week for the America-born London-based designer Michael Halpern. Just last week, Halpern’s penchant for disco-inspired and sequin-embellished eveningwear earned him a place on this year’s BoF 500. For S/S 2018, the designer presented his first catwalk show at the Palladium Theatre, after a much lauded presentation last season. Against a filmic backdrop of blinking eyes projected onto a glittering curtain, Halpern’s models sashayed between the seats of the space, clad into sequin adorned mini dresses, flares and bustiers. The collection heralded a development of silhouette, with dresses featuring fronds of origami-like fabric, and metallic lamé draped onto the body. Adding a liberal splash of glitz to the collection, Halpern collaborated with Swarovski, who adorned his already twinkling pieces with over 150,000 crystals. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Globe-Trotter: This season, Globe-Trotter pitched its tent at the Leica studio (the brands previously collaborated on a camera bag). Alongside an exhibition of Adrian Steirn’s photographs of Africa, Globe-Trotter presented the new Safari range that comes lined with Masai red fabrics sourced in Kenya.
Isa Arfen: Serafina Sama drew inspiration from a recent trip to Japan, where she discovered the work of light artist James Turrell. The artist’s work was echoed in the dreamlike quality of both the garments and presentation. Models stood against a filmic backdrop, where touches of Japanese anime and the concept of wabi sabi came together.
Gareth Pugh: The designer eschewed the traditional runway format, instead choosing to present a film at the Imax Cinema in Waterloo. Directed by Nick Knight, and produced in collaboration with the artist Olivier de Sagazan and choreographer Wayne McGregor, the film not only showcased Gareth’s latest creations, from flame-detail dresses to torture-device like bodysuits, but featured a scene inspired by the darker works of Francis Bacon. The film opened with Pugh himself seated opposite a man, both dressed in business garb. Pugh’s face and body is progressively contorted with clay, his form merges and contorts into that of his transformer, before finally being stripped and splayed on a table. The film touched on the concepts of beauty, death and form, and bought a fascinating depth to the week’s proceedings.
Ports 1961: Together with her team, Ports 1961 creative director Natasa Cagal delved into the brand’s own history. The travel-spirited result was peppered with the finest souvenirs collected along the way – Italy for men’s suiting and flair, Cuba for woven mules and playfulness, and the final stop, England, for cricket sweaters and a dose of minimalism. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Richard Malone: For an early university project at London’s Central Saint Martins, Ireland-born Richard Malone bought in a series of photographs documenting a car crash as research. The flourishing designer is known for drawing from a range of unusual influences for his print-heavy and sculptural collections. For S/S 2018, he looked to both showgirl costumes from the thirties and forties, and his own iPhone images of discarded rubbish for inspiration. In supermarket-like hues of blues, neon green and white, the collection included elegant yet off-kilter dresses, utility-focused two-pieces and chevron stripe jackets and trousers. Looks were polished off with striped elasticated boots with cut-outs, which riffed on the futuristic footwear of Courrèges. From showgirls to supermarket workers, the amalgamation of influences was a splendid start to the season.
MM6: The label threw a street party of sorts in Convent Garden, complete with models posing in high-waisted denim and deep V necks in its store windows, walls tagged with graffiti, sweet-sounding music, and finished off with drinks and sunshine. MM6 is welcome take over our street any day.
Molly Goddard: Props to Molly Goddard – the designer who has become synonymous with flouncy tulle designs – for eschewing the usual stone-faced affair of catwalk shows. For S/S 2018, Goddard imagined a tipsy woman preening herself before an art gallery opening. Models hip-popped, peace-signed and strutted down a catwalk lined with podiums; Edie Campbell even appeared puffing on an e-cigarette. The atmosphere was light-hearted, though that’s not to say Goddard’s clothes weren’t mature. There were voluminous ruched dresses, silk blazers paired with metallic skirts and pinstripe skirts paired with cardigans. Outre proportions were also key. Balenciaga-like babydoll dresses were sashayed down the catwalk, and carried off to perfection by Erin O’Connor who closed the show to whoops and cheers. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Versus: Donatella Versace announced the launch of the Gianna Versace Scholarship at Central Saint Martins – an initiative that will provide financial support to a flourishing graduate. It was fitting, then, that the brand held its Versus show – the younger label of Versace – in the cavernous atrium of the university, at King’s Cross. An ode to club wear, the collection fused nineties rave with rodeo. It featured sharp bondage-detail tailoring, wide Gabba boy denim jeans, fish net and neon mini dresses, shiny checks and chain prints. Looks we’re topped off with safari hats, bright starburst earrings, and briefs glittering with rhinestone Versus slogans across the bottom. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Phoebe English: The idea for Phoebe English’s presentation was born was she met puppet-maker Judith Hole. Referencing the Parisian couture tradition of producing the toiles in a quarter of the original size, the duo presented a play where puppets and its masters were dressed in monochrome attire made from English’s signature delicate fabrics.
Ops&Ops: The label was founded by Teri Olins and Steph Jones, who bonded over a mutual love for shoes and all things sixties. It started with a soft leather loafer, their signature ‘No.10’, which comes in a range of colours and comfortable enough to take you through from the early morning to late into the evening. New for this season are warm tones, such as burnt orange and tobacco, as well as a lined version, the ‘No.14’.
Álvaro González: The Spanish-born shoe designer presented his latest collection in his Marylebone boutique. González has experimented with new embellishments for spring, from floral gems to transparent plastics, gunmetal eyelets to colourful velvet. When it’s time for next season’s shopping, we’ll be opting for these slip-on sandals, with metallic cross over straps which resemble frilled lengths of elastic. Not least we forget González’s ‘Alberta’ raffia-detail style, featuring twinkling blue tinsel, inspired by the foil of chocolate wrappers.
Sharon Wauchob: the designer presented her collection in St Cyprian’s church- an ecclesiastical space lit up by a giant floating balloon. Inspired by her first trip to Paris, where Wauchob showed her collection from 2003 until last year, the designer brought together the decadence of Parisian couture with minimalism of the 90s era. Hand embroideries covered satin coats, which on their turn covered translucent printed silk dresses.
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