Christopher Raeburn: This season Christopher Raeburn, who is mostly known for his innovative work with fabrics, worked together with The Woolmark Company to shine a light on the diversity of Merino wool. Heavy knits were interspersed with fluffy jumpers and lightweight coats, all in powerful military-esque shapes and shades
Toogood: For their first on-the-London-schedule fashion presentation Faye and Erica Toogood tackled the subject of repetition in mainstream fashion. Repetitive movements were being executed by performers dressed in newly knitted designs of abandoned threats and yarns decorated with treasures. In true Toogood style the sisters championed the serendipity of the chance of finding something special
Joseph: For A/W the British brand unravelled its most avant-garde collection to date that was anything but the luxe leather and cashmere basics that Joseph is know for globally. Although still finely finished, suiting was unpicked and turned inside out in an anti-conformist fashion, while bulky oversized knitwear was hand sewn with naive bird or eye motifs, their thick woollen yarns left unsnipped and trailing. A rebel spirit may have punctuated the runway show but it was still reassuring to spot a plethora of creative director Louise Trotter’s luxurious coats, voluminous patent leather skirts and exaggerated culotte pants that were also all in possession of that timeless Joseph quality stamp. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Peter Pilotto: Silk silhouettes, soft knitwear and warm coats covered in graphic neon accents blazed through and icy winter landscape. Spoiled by the different textures and colors you would almost miss Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos’ first jewellery collection with Atelier Swarovski which consisted of colourful crystal hair pins, cuffs and dangling earrings. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Osman: For the Autumn season Osman Yousefzada, who originally trained as a tailor, stayed true to his background. The signature OSMAN look of clean lines and architectural shapes formed the canvas for the designer’s own hand-painted botanical prints which were seen in the form of oversized prints, embellishments and appliqué. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Roksanda: Just like Picasso had a blue period, so it seems Roksanda has. In a show venue lined with a blue carpet and filled with blue panels depicting modernist inspired female silhouettes and faces, she sent dark blue and plum looks down the runway, complemented with cognac, ochre and, pink and purple hues. Ruffled necklines, velvet ribbons, and velvet two-tone trompe l’oeil boots added an art-school teacher vibe. Photography: Jason Lloyd Evans
