Best in shows: our favourite S/S 2015 collections cut and pasted within a two-tone palette
Jonathan Anderson put a primal spin on his Loewe debut, in which raw edges were balanced by the maison’s sophisticated leather working.
He wears blazer, £1,595; T-shirt, £250; trousers, £575, all by Loewe. She wears shirt, £1,675; trousers, £2,825; earring, £525, all by Loewe. Photography: Arno Frugier
Silvia Venturini Fendi’s spring suiting line-up came with stage-worthy extras that included perforated leather gilets, silken polo tees and crocodile sandals.
Gilet; suit; top; sandals, prices on request, all by Fendi. Photography: Arno Frugier
Building on the brand’s leather goods DNA, Alessandra Facchinetti worked almost exclusively with skins, appliquéing abstract foral motifs into wrap skirts and creamy bomber jackets.
Skirt (worn as top), £2,250, by Tod’s. Photography: Arno Frugier
Kris Van Assche took bourgeois suiting to the seaside with an artistic merging of sailor stripes and businessman’s pinstripes.
Jacket, £2,200; trousers, £1,150, both by Dior Homme. Photography: Arno Frugier
Phoebe Philo used graphic cut-outs to punctuate spring’s elongated silhouette; her signature tunic tops were paired with voluminous trousers and a heeled ballerina pump.
Top, €2,050; trousers, €1,320; shoes, €670, all by Céline. Photography: Arno Frugier
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli extended their luxe touch to everyday essentials from leather trenches to collared jumpers.
Leather trench, £3,490; top, £780; shirt, £680; trousers, £440, all by Valentino. Photography: Arno Frugier
Boss (left) and Kenzo
Working with the house’s two-piece tailoring legacy, for his second Boss outing Jason Wu modernised the skirt suit in an innovative bonded tweed. Meanwhile, Americans in Paris Humberto Leon and Carol Lim fused techno rubber and coated cotton to create the ultimate globetrotter’s car coat.
She wears jacket; skirt, prices on request, both by Boss. He wears coat, £895, by Kenzo. Photography: Arno Frugier
Mrs Prada held together her deconstructed spring offering with contrasting topstitching.
Top, £1,095, by Prada. Photography: Arno Frugier
Fracturing the French house’s colourful print heritage, designer Véronique Nichanian worked with a watery, tonal block print, called ‘Fragments’.
Jacket, £2,180, by Hermès. Photography: Arno Frugier
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
Inspired by architectural contrasts, Stefano Pilati put a line through spring, presenting striped efects on jacket lapels and cashmere sweaters.
Coat, £4,200; jacket (just seen), £3,350; top, £600, all by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture. Photography: Arno Frugier
Calvin Klein Collection
Francisco Costa pinned his spring collection to proportion, teaming colour blocked, tunic-length tanks with billowing pleated culottes.
Top, €1,325; trousers, €1,025, both by Calvin Klein Collection. Shoes, €850, by Pierre Hardy. Photography: Arno Frugier
Nicolas Ghesquière continued his pairing of familiar clothing archetypes with intricate fabric manipulations, including strips of lattice-like jersey and leather that resembled hi-tech lace.
This page, dress, £3,200; bra, £450; earrings, from £190, all by Louis Vuitton. Photography: Arno Frugier
Cerruti 1881 Paris (left) and JW Anderson
Inspired by LA surf culture, Aldo Maria Camillo introduced a Californian ease into his tailoring, pairing unstructured robe coats with long knitted tanks. London-based designer JW Anderson anchored his spring collection with nautical nuances that ranged from sailor’s collars and rope ties to grommet stampings.
He wears coat, €1,550; top, €590; trousers, €990, all by Cerruti 1881 Paris. She wears dress, £820, by JW Anderson. Photography: Arno Frugier