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The grooming trends that shaped New York Fashion Week S/S 2014

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The makeup done by Dick Page and hair done by Guido Palau

Marc by Marc Jacobs: The American designer's youthful outing was defined by Dick Page's bold choice of electric blue painted wide on the eyes and Guido Palau's damp locks, casually held together by a folded scarf tied around the neck. Writer: Rosa Bertoli

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

By Jack Moss

last updated 18 October 2022

in Features

**Michael Kors:** Dick Page's bright make-up created a glowing, ethereal look at Michael Kors. The hair was pulled up in wispy chignons, fashioned by Orlando Pita with cascading natural waves

**Tommy Hilfiger:** Models sported a sunkissed surfer look in keeping with the collection's theme. Pat McGrath's healthy glow was topped by Eugene Souleiman's soft, casual waves

**Rag & Bone:** Guido Palau and Gucci Westman joined forces to create a strong look at Rag & Bone's Spring outing. The straightened hair was centre-parted with sleek, gelled locks pulled to the sides, while lips got a bright colour treatment with a fluorescent orange shade

**3.1 Phillip Lim:** Paul Hanlon's wet, textured hair and Francelle Daly's luminous complexions were a suitable match for the collection's bright fabrics and geological-inspired prints

The makeup of the model done by Fabiana Gomes and hair done by Antoinette Beenders — **Osklen:** The collection's jewel tones were complemented with pared-down grooming. Fabiana Gomes focused on eyebrows and flushed cheeks. Antoinette Beenders followed the simple theme with her sleek, side-parted low ponytails

Diane Kendal's work at Reed Krakoff adopted the nude palette with bright touches on lips and cheekbones. — **Reed Krakoff:** Diane Kendal's work at Reed Krakoff adopted the nude palette of the collection, with an all-natural face featuring bright touches on lips and cheekbones. Guido Palau's sophisticated hair took the form of a soft side-parting and a low, straightened ponytail

The look at Alexander Wang was natural and subtly wild by Diane Kendal — **Alexander Wang:** The look at Alexander Wang was natural and subtly wild, with barely-there make-up by Diane Kendal accompanying Guido Palau's grungy tousled locks

**Prabal Gurung:** The colour-popping collection at Prabal Gurung was referenced in Charlotte Tilbury's bold matte lips and subtle cat eyes

An image of the models with natural complexions and simple, wavy locks — **Narciso Rodriguez**: The collection's modern femininity was translated into natural complexions and simple, wavy locks

**Diesel:** Models sported a raw look with translucent make-up by Pat McGrath, which gave skin a natural glow. Guido Palau served up a new twist on the French braid, which was fashioned from loosely tied locks with face-framing wisps

**Proenza Schouler:** Diane Kendal's 'raw beauties' featured groomed brows and an even complexion enlightened by a rosy tint on the lips, while hair was left down in natural, brushed waves

The make over done by James Kaliardos and hair done by Odile Gilbert — **Rodarte:** Odile Gilbert's hair was a voluminous affair, pulled to one side. James Kaliardos's look focused on the extreme brow and slightly accentuated eyes

The makeover done by Lucia Pica — **Ohne Titel:** The hair at Ohne Titel mirrored the graphic elements of the collection, with streaks of bright paint brushed over Jimmy Paul's knotted chignons. Lucia Pica enhanced the girls' features with bronze-powdered eyelids and cheekbones

**Thom Browne:** You can always count on Thom Browne to deliver one of the most outrageous looks of the season. Make-up artist Sil Bruinsma created a smudged version of a kabuki mask, staining the models' white faces with blue and magenta. Jimmy Paul's exaggerated hairdos took the same dramatic cues, with white-powdered hair backcombed into a giant pompadour chignons

The makeup look by Tom Pecheux and hair done by Odile Gilbert — **Altuzarra:** Tom Pecheux's make-up focused on quiet drama, with a white-powdered eye and a deep shade of matte red defining the lips. To complete the look, Odile Gilbert crafted simple, low ponytails from sleek centre-parted locks

An image of the model with muted tones of makeup and hair was left down to give simple effect — **Calvin Klein Collection:** Another purist look at Calvin Klein, where the muted tones of the make-up enhanced the models' natural beauty. Hair was left down and tucked behind the ears for an elegantly simple effect

The makeup done by Charlotte Tilbury and hair done by Eugene Souleiman — **Donna Karan:** Donna Karan's exotic glamour was matched with sun-blushed faces and darkened lashes framing the eyes by Charlotte Tilbury, who also created a glossy shade for the lips. Eugene Souleiman's poker-straight 'dos were left down, with a gold barette sweeping back a portion of hair along the crown

The no-make-up, natural-hair look fit perfectly with the label's ethical roots — **Edun:** The no-make-up, natural-hair look at Edun seemed to fit perfectly with the label's ethical roots, while also complementing the collection's luxurious feel

**Ralph Lauren:** Guido Palau gave Ralph Lauren's models a luxuriant blowout, with the collection's 1960s references visible in Tom Pecheux's subtly mod-inspired make-up

**Victoria Beckham:** Pat McGrath created a transparent glow for the British designer's girls, brushing the eyes in a shimmery bronze. Guido Palau's simple ponytails, accessorised with a thick black hair band, were an apt nod to the graphic details in the collection

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Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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