The grooming trends that shaped London Fashion Week S/S 2014

Simone Rocha: James Pecis created an elaborate knotted and backcombed Mohawk, while Sam Bryant gave the skin a bright, yet raw finish. Writer: Rosa Bertoli

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd Evans)

By Jack Moss

last updated 18 October 2022

**Paul Smith:** A pared back approach was seen at Paul Smith. Hair stylist Sam McKnight and make-up artist Petros Petrohilos worked together to deliver a sophisticated natural beauty.

**Peter Pilotto:** Lucia Pica's 'otherwordly beings' existed with pale, alabaster skin and a matte lavender lip. The severity of the look was further enhanced by Anthony Turner's centre-parted hairdos.

**Richard Nicoll:** Gucci Westman's focus was on the eyes, which she subtly shaded with a pale grey hue. Peter Grey's contribution to the minimal look was a low ponytail held in place by a double elastic band.

**Thomas Tait:** The model's lips at Thomas Tait were either painted a deep matte red, or a glossy natural pink, while the long, straight hair was sleekly centre-parted

**Tom Ford:** Orlando Pita created sexy vapourous chignons with loose locks tousled back in voluminous waves. Charlotte Tilbury's make-up was naturally glamorous, with a touch of pink on the lips and an elegantly groomed brow.

**Unique:** Topshop Unique's tribal references were matched with a smoky liquid eye by make-up artist Hannah Murray. Anthony Turner then created casual waves out of damp locks.

**Vivienne Westwood:** As makeup virtuoso Val Garland aptly put it, Vivienne Westwood's spring outing could be dubbed 'the Westwood Theatre of Chaos', and the show's grooming reflected this perfectly. Faces were painted white with smudged black cracks, while features were exaggerated with black and red paint. Hair was then heavily backcombed into long messy braids.

**Antonio Berardi:** Gucci Westman borrowed the show's romantic colour palette to paint model's faces with a deep red on the lips, and a subtle rose shade blended onto eyelids. Hair was left wet and pulled back in a mix of backcombed volume and sophisticated braids by Eugene Souleiman.

**Burberry Prorsum:** Christopher Bailey's English beauties bore a look fashioned by Neil Moodie and Wendy Rowe - the talented duo pairing an elegant mix of rosy pink lids and natural brushed-out hair.

For Spring, girls had pale veneer complexions, their hair worn down in textured waves — **Christopher Kane:** With a collection carrying a plethora of decorative touches, it seemed only fitting that Kane's grooming should embrace a bare, luminous minimum. For Spring, his girls had pale veneer complexions, their hair worn down in textured waves.

The make-up direction defined a smoldering eye, finished with just a hint of gold powder, while hair was pulled up in a messy bun on the nape, with shorter, straightened locks framing the face — **Erdem:** Erdem Moragliou's richly embellished collection revolved around an entirely black-and-white palette. Only adding to the drama, the make-up direction defined a smoldering eye, finished with just a hint of gold powder, while hair was pulled up in a messy bun on the nape, with shorter, straightened locks framing the face.

**Fashion East - Ryan Lo:** As experimental as the young designer's collection, Ryan Lo's whimsical creatures came outfitted with bright bunny ears that neatly sat on Mark Hampton's shiny hairdos. Mathias Van Hooff's ultra-girly faces finished off the look and featured deep-red lips and a dramatically lined cat eye.

**Fashion East - Ashley Williams:** Complementing Williams' minimal silhouettes, the essential ponytail came effortlessly into play held into place by hair stylist Mark Hampton's silk foulard. On the faces, Sally Branka applied a generous dose of pink blush, highlighting mouths with a fluorescent matte lipstick.

**Fashion East - Claire Barrow:** At this show the focus was on a hyper hued 3D motif that make-up artist Lucy Bridge referenced with a bright, bi-colour mascara and red lips. Mark Hampton's hair was left down and blow-dried in an extremely vaporous and wavy do.

**Giles:** Supermodels were high on Giles' spring inspiration list, and his grooming glamorously complied, courtesy of Lucia Pieroni's immaculately luminous skin and Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck's back combed tresses

The spotlight was on the 'night-before eye' at Jonathan Saunders, with black eyeliner smudged on lower lids and lashes for a look — **Jonathan Saunders: T**he spotlight was on the 'night-before eye' at Jonathan Saunders, with black eyeliner smudged on lower lids and lashes for a look that Lucia Pieroni defined as 'amateur make-up'.

**JW Anderson:** The designer's 'avant bland' collection of mundane items transposed into garments was teamed with a pared back grooming oeuvre. Lucia Pieroni's 'woodland nymph' faces had a striking natural appeal, while Anthony Turner's low ponytails gave the look an everyday ease.

**Lucas Nascimento:** Make-up artist Janeen Witherspoon gave models an ethereal glow with delicate hints of colour blended onto the outer lids and a touch of gloss on the lips. Hair was given a wet-effect, neatly brushed over the top of the head and tousled into small textured waves.

**Margaret Howell:** Every season the faces at Margaret Howell revolve around one focal element, and this time it was Sam Bryant's neatly outlined cat eye. To complement, Neil Moodie created low chignons from braided hair to sit under the designer's man-style Trilby hats

Margaret Howell: Every season the faces at Margaret Howell revolve around one focal element, and this time it was Sam Bryant's neatly outlined cat eye. To complement, Neil Moodie created low chignons from braided hair to sit under the designer's man-style Trilby hats — **Marques Almeida:** Syd Hayes brushed hair into loose, low ponytails with small casual wisps falling out at the front. Laura Dominique's faces were slightly flushed, but otherwise bare.

**Mary Katrantzou:** The focus at Mary Katrantzou was on a stained magenta lip – a 'real girl' look that make-up artist Val Garland explained backstage. Anthony Turner gave straight hair a vaporous arrangement at the back, while soft waves were left to fall to the front.

**Meadham Kirchhoff:** James Pecis' hair at Meadham Kirchhoff was an elaborate Victorian curled creation in either bright orange, or a peroxide bleached blonde. Florrie White focused on a more natural look for faces, featuring bright complexions and glossy lip hues, chosen to match the different wig colours.

Topics

Fashion

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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