Doug Aitken creates reflective artwork for Saint Laurent in Venice
For the Saint Laurent S/S 2022 show, the brand’s first physical catwalk presentation since the Covid-19 pandemic began, American artist Doug Aitken created the living artwork Green Lens, on Venice's Isola della Certosa
At the inaugural 2017 Desert X biennal in the Coachella Valley, American artist Doug Aitken created the land art installation Mirage, a mirrored house reflecting its arid, shrub-lined environment on its fractured façade. The structure was designed to act as a visual echo-chamber, informed by the architectural philosophies of Frank Lloyd Wright, who believed architecture should exist inside and outside of the landscape.
Last night in Venice, a stream of Saint Laurent models weaved around another futuristic Aitken structure, situated like a shining spaceship among the lush plants and trees of Isola della Certosa. Titled Green Lens, the mirrored living artwork was commissioned by the Parisian maison and formed the breathtaking backdrop to its S/S 2022 menswear show, the first physical catwalk presentation held by the brand since the Covid-19 pandemic began.
‘Green Lens is a living artwork. It is simultaneously an artwork, installation and stage. It’s like a lighthouse that one can journey to and have a very personal experience, while it also transmits light, ideas and questions. A focal point that allows all of us to share our ideas and visions for the future post Covid... a celebration and inquiry into the future,’ Aitken explains of the intention behind the artwork, which is on view to the public throughout July, and will be the location of thought-provoking performances and coversations.
Saint Laurent artistic director Anthony Vaccarello also offered visual inquiries into the future, creating a collection that interwove reflective elements from the past, like billowing Victorian capes, Glam Rock vertiginous platform boots, New Romantic frilled blousons and tailored jacquard trousers, and punky denim gilets. Like Aitken's sculpture, which emphasised mankind's present moment, situated somewhere in trepidatious time between the start and end of the Covid-19 pandemic, the Saint Laurent S/S 2022 collection riffed on genres through time to posit clothing for the present.
‘From the exterior [Green Lens] creates a choreography of changing reflections of clouds, mist and wild green vegetation. As day turns to night it glows and becomes a kinetic light sculpture and sound composition,’ Aitken adds.
INFORMATION
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Tour a new Sardinian hotel hidden among sand dunes
Hotel Le Dune Piscinas is a cosy five-star boutique resort surrounded by the untamed natural beauty of Sardinia’s Costa Verde
By Ifeoluwa Adedeji Published
-
Looking forward to Tate Modern’s 25th anniversary party
From 9-12 May 2025, Tate Modern, one of London’s most adored art museums, will celebrate its 25th anniversary with a lively weekend of festivities
By Smilian Cibic Published
-
‘Music is in the DNA of the brand’: AV Vattev on creating this year’s loudest accessory
Rising London designer AV Vattev – who has recently outfitted Charli XCX and Troye Sivan for their viral ‘Sweat’ tour – talks about the influence of music on his ‘bold and unapologetic’ collections
By Jack Moss Published
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spin
From a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
By Jack Moss Published
-
Aaron Esh on his subversive menswear, inspired by friends
‘It’s about taking something authentic, the people that I know, the clothes they wear,’ says Aaron Esh, the recent Central Saint Martins graduate making menswear inspired by his native east London
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Sharp edge: A/W 2022 menswear, inspired by the underground
Photographed by George Harvey, an edit of menswear looks encapsulating this season’s nocturnal mood – from Balenciaga to Loewe
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Dior recreates Paris bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for A/W 2022 show
Dior recreated Paris’ landmark bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for its A/W 2022 menswear show, which took place on 21 January 2022, the date of Christian Dior’s birthday
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Kenzo returns to Galerie Vivienne for Nigo’s A/W 2022 show debut
For his debut, A/W 2022 Kenzo show, the brand’s new creative director Nigo chose Paris’ Galerie Vivienne, the location of founder Kenzo Takada’s first boutique
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to Fendi
A Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Men’s fashion week A/W 2022: all you need to know
The locations, the brands, the buzz: our expert guide to men’s fashion week A/W 2022
By Laura Hawkins Last updated