Rendez-Vous: Roger Vivier's demi-couture collection embarks on its latest world tour
It's not unusual for French haute couture houses such as Chanel or Christian Dior to fly their one-of-a-kind confections around the world accompanied by its petite mains, to visit clients for follow-up fittings, or in the case that they could not attend the maison's Paris show. It's a high-flying privilege that has quietly been extended to the world of accoutrements by the storied house of Roger Vivier.
Marrying couture's artisan expertise with the creative fluidity of prêt-à-porter, Roger Vivier creative director Bruno Frisoni's 'Rendez-Vous' collection has clocked up platinum frequent flyer status over the past seven seasons – thanks to the 12-city world tour that the limited edition collection enjoys every six months.
'I wanted to have something that would be a good substitute to couture actually,' explains Frisoni, who is in London this week to showcase his S/S 2014 line. 'Not that couture is not the right thing to do, just that it was not suiting me anymore. I wanted a shorter delivery and another way to look at things, so now they can buy a beautiful bag or a pair of shoes like they would buy an edition of a beautiful photo in an art gallery, he says, adding, 'And you also have the security, not to have everybody [wearing] the same thing!'
After Frisoni's latest Fall collection debuted in Paris during the recent couture shows (think Rue Saint-Honoré via a Far Eastern discothèque), his Spring 'Rendez-Vous' collection – which revived the 'Virgule' comma heel that Monsieur Vivier built his reputation on in 1963 – began its journey with an intimate cocktail reception, hosted by the designer and Madame Isabelle Emie, wife of the French Ambassador, at her Kensington Palace Gardens residence. 'It could be a private place, it could be a lunch', Frisoni explains, within the property's grand hall, as to the variety of events built around the shoe and bag collection.
Each season, Rendez-Vous journeys across the globe (from Taiwan to New York), remaining for no more than 24 hours in each destination – essentially just long enough for Frisoni's clients to be fitted with black satin lasts, representing each new design, from which only 20 pairs of each style will ever be made.
Offering a glimpse into his design process, Frisoni's now iconic watercolour illustrations accompany the house's invitations. 'Actually if you look at the little book [invitation],' he continues, 'the first one and the last one were the two first sketches I have done when thinking about Rendez-Vous. For working drawings I like to have fun when I look at them, pin them on the wall, instead of having a very precise thing that doesn't make sense to me.' Next stop: Milan and then Tokyo, where the chaussure voyage continues.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
LEVC’s L380 is a truly magnificent minivan
The London Electric Vehicle Company’s L380, is a magnificent minivan designed for upscale long-distance travel, as the maker of the London Taxi branches out into all-purpose EVs
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Enjoy ocean and jungle bliss at Bespoke Tulum’s residences in Mexico
Bespoke Tulum is an exclusive hospitality complex designed by Muro Rojo Arquitectura on Mexico’s Caribbean coastline
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
In Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewellery, the archival meets the au courant
Van Cleef & Arpels pays tribute to its rich heritage with a captivating high jewellery collection
By Hannah Silver Published
-
‘What is beauty?’: Balenciaga’s Demna on creating thoroughly modern haute couture
Balenciaga creative director Demna opens up to Wallpaper* about his transformative haute couture collections, which instil a mood of modernity into the most traditional of mediums
By Dal Chodha Published
-
Haute Couture Week S/S 2024: Fendi to Maison Margiela Artisanal
Haute Couture Week S/S 2024 took place in Paris this week, representing the pinnacle of French style and savoir-faire in some of the season’s most opulent runway presentations
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Forever Valentino: inside the Italian house’s most comprehensive exhibition yet
Qatar Museums and Maison Valentino present ‘Forever Valentino’, an homage to founder Valentino Garavani which spans 1959 to present day
By Martha Elliott Published
-
Kim Jones mines the Dior archives and couture techniques to embellish the modern man
By Dal Chodha Last updated
-
The quiet couturier: inside the world of Bouchra Jarrar
By Dan Thawley Last updated
-
Frieze frame: Roger Vivier teams up with Ambra Medda on a limited-edition Miss Viv'
By Katrina Israel Last updated
-
Haute happenings: Tales from the Paris Couture Spring/Summer 2014 season
By Dan Thawley Last updated
-
Christian Lacroix's couture collection for Schiaparelli presented in Paris
By Amy Verner Last updated