Christian Lacroix's couture collection for Schiaparelli presented in Paris
A chorus of birds excitedly chirped the revival of Elsa Schiaparelli at Paris' Les Arts Décoratifs last night. But in a gesture that would have been appreciated by the iconic designer, who died nearly 40 years ago, the birds turned out to be a digital trompe l'oeil, a series of flat-screen images suspended within a canopy of flowers.
One year after the house of Schiaparelli reopened the doors of the designer's former apartment at 21 Place Vendôme, it finally unveiled the first collection, under the direction of Christian Lacroix.
Of the 99 sketches Lacroix dreamed up, only 18 became physical pieces. Yet the compact collection was produced with the same level of detail as haute couture. A pink and black striped duchesse satin gown required 40 metres of material and took 380 hours to complete. One beaded cape weighs 20 kilos, while a skirt was reportedly double that. No wonder the clothes weren't on models. Fifteen of the looks were mounted on a mirrored carrousel that took four minutes to make a full rotation; the remaining three occupied an annex where sketches lined the walls.
Nothing, alas, will be recreated to sell. Farida Khelfa, who bears the title of brand muse, said she is unsure whether even she will be able to wear the one-off designs - primarily because the mannequins are extra petite (though the midnight-blue coat with exaggerated pockets extending from the waist would be her first pick). Beginning next year, there will be two yearly couture collections and two prêt-à-couture collections, divided between a creative director and a guest design contributor, perhaps from the world of art or music.
If the collection was not as boundary-pushing as one might have expected Schiaparelli to be in the 21st century, it undoubtedly confirmed Lacroix as a kindred spirit. While he made sure to sprinkle the pieces with Schiap essentials - beetle bijoux, a jewel-encrusted lobster pochette, harem-style trousers and oversized bows - he also let us know he has not lost his flare for the fantastic.
Hosted in the Salon des Boiseries, a wood-panelled room overlooking the Tuileries Garden that is rarely open to the public, the cocktails drew footwear's leading men Christian Louboutin and Bruno Frisoni. Next-generation designers Roksanda Ilincic and Maxime Simoëns paid their respects - the former attributing her love of colour to Schiaparelli. Jean Paul Gaultier and Inès de la Fressange were overheard discussing the signature shocking pink (the hue appeared underfoot as a pile carpet, laid down for the occasion).
'The style of Schiaparelli is still possible because she was so much beyond and before others,' said de la Fressange once Gaultier had drifted off, pausing mid-sentence to snap a picture of the fox-fringed boots. 'She actually did boots like this. [Every] designer has been inspired by Schiaparelli. It's just impossible to avoid her - like Balenciaga, like Chanel. But even stronger.'
Milliner Stephen Jones confirmed the sentiment with charming candour. 'There is no one for me more inspirational than Schiaparelli,' he said. 'The shoe hat is the best hat ever made in the world. And I'm jealous of it every day of my life.'
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
All aboard Casa Quinta, floating in Brazil’s tropical rainforest
Casa Quinta by Brazilian studio Arquipélago appears to float at canopy level in the heart of the rainforest that flanks the picturesque town of Paraty on the coast between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro
By Rainbow Nelson Published
-
The Home of Sustainable Things is a trove of circular design for domestic life
The Home of Sustainable Things (HOST), is a homeware shop in London, focused on circular design to encourage mindful living and more conscious consumption
By Tianna Williams Published
-
First look: Vyrao’s latest neuroscientific fragrance bottles the grounding effect of a digital detox
Vyrao’s earthy new fragrance ‘Mamajuju’ provides sensory respite from screen time. Lara Johnson-Wheeler speaks with brand founder Yasmin Sewell for a Wallpaper* preview
By Lara Johnson-Wheeler Published
-
Highlights from Haute Couture Week A/W 2024
Wallpaper* picks the best of Haute Couture Week A/W 2024 in Paris, from Olympics-inspired offerings at Dior and Thom Browne to the first Chanel collection since the departure of Virginie Viard
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
‘What is beauty?’: Balenciaga’s Demna on creating thoroughly modern haute couture
Balenciaga creative director Demna opens up to Wallpaper* about his transformative haute couture collections, which instil a mood of modernity into the most traditional of mediums
By Dal Chodha Published
-
Haute Couture Week S/S 2024: Fendi to Maison Margiela Artisanal
Haute Couture Week S/S 2024 took place in Paris this week, representing the pinnacle of French style and savoir-faire in some of the season’s most opulent runway presentations
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Forever Valentino: inside the Italian house’s most comprehensive exhibition yet
Qatar Museums and Maison Valentino present ‘Forever Valentino’, an homage to founder Valentino Garavani which spans 1959 to present day
By Martha Elliott Published
-
French fashion industry launches online charity auction of blue designs
‘La mode s’engage', features auction pieces from brands including Celine, Berluti, Chanel and Schiaparelli
By Minako Norimatsu Last updated
-
A room with a view: fashion designers' line of sight
From Manolo Blahnik to Margaret Howell, we've invited fashion designers to document by hand what they can see from their work desk or window, be it a view of a verdant garden landscape, or an urban snapshot of baroque architecture. They might just inspire you to work on a self-isolation sketch of your own.
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Kim Jones mines the Dior archives and couture techniques to embellish the modern man
By Dal Chodha Last updated
-
The quiet couturier: inside the world of Bouchra Jarrar
By Dan Thawley Last updated