Oliver Spencer x Niwaki: a collection for the green-fingered
British menswear designer Oliver Spencer has united with Niwaki – which sources gardening tools from Japan – on a collaborative collection designed to withstand the rigours of tending the garden
Part of the reason Oliver Spencer purchased his home on the UK’s Isle of Wight – a 1970s-built seafront house between Cowes and Ryde – was the garden, 2.5 acres of land leading down to the water, carefully tended for two decades by its previous owners. Six years on, having taken on their mantle, the British menswear designer brings his own gardening expertise to a new collaboration. Uniting with Niwaki, a Britain-based label known for importing Japanese gardening tools – from tripod ladders to topiary clippers – the horticulturally-inspired capsule is designed with the rigours of working in the garden in mind.
‘Having owned the house in the Isle of Wight for the past six years, I had a good idea of what I needed,’ says Spencer. ‘I always begin with fabric first when putting together collections, so I wanted to find a robust cloth that would get more supple and relaxed with wear, and luckily I came across a beautiful heavy organic cotton drill made in France. Then I considered all the tools I’d need, and it was those details that informed the pockets, patches and clips.’
One such item in the collection is the ‘Scion’ gardening gilet, crafted from hard-wearing indigo-rinse denim or durable black organic cotton, which comes complete with five front pockets ready to be filled with tools, bulbs and clippings (‘golden rule of gilets – pockets, and lots of them’, say Niwaki founders Jake and Keiko Hobson). Other pieces follow this utility-driven approach, whether loose-fitting smock pullovers with patch front pockets or the ‘Borders’ combat-style trousers in cotton drill. ‘I think my favourite pieces are the smock and the gilet, because they are super functional in the garden, but you could easily just wear them as casual workwear garments.’
Spencer first discovered Niwaki – which means ‘garden tree’ in Japanese – while researching brands to bring into Oliver Spencer Studio, the brand’s homeware and design offshoot, in 2019. The timing proved serendipitous; with Spencer having met with the brand just before lockdown, Niwaki’s tools were in his stores in time for a period when people were stuck in their homes and gardens. ‘Everyone suddenly became avid gardeners and our Niwaki sales went crazy,’ says Spencer. ‘It wasn’t long after that we mooted the idea of a clothing collaboration and the seed was planted. I think we share a desire to create objects and garments that have an intrinsically beautiful shape with a utilitarian aspect that is timeless and fit for purpose.’
The collection itself encapsulates this shared ethos, though Spencer is keen to point out that you needn’t be green-fingered to enjoy the designs. ‘It’s really a collection about effortless minimalism and utilitarian appeal,’ he says. ‘I think everyone will find something to love.’
INFORMATION
oliverspencer.co.uk
niwaki.com
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Jack Moss is the Fashion & Beauty Features Director at Wallpaper*, having joined the team in 2022 as Fashion Features Editor. Previously the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 Magazine, he has also contributed to numerous international publications and featured in ‘Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers’, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
-
In BDSM biker romance ‘Pillion’, clothes become a medium for ‘fantasy and fetishism’Costume designer Grace Snell breaks down the leather-heavy wardrobe for the Alexander Skarsgård-starring Pillion, which traces a dom/sub relationship between a shy parking attendant and a biker
-
Tour Aflalo’s first retail space, a gallery-like studio in New YorkLight-filled and elegant, Aflalo has opened its first retail space in a classic Soho loft, reimagined by Nordic Knots Studio
-
This Toronto pizzeria hides a sultry bar with serious biteNorth of Brooklyn unveils a fresh, two-level outpost where crisp, light-filled minimalism gives way to a warmer, neon-lit upstairs area
-
Oliver Spencer’s winter collection is a lesson in good outerwearPrepare for sudden temperature drops with Oliver Spencer’s Alpine-inspired winter collection, ‘Postcards from Lech-Zürs’, whereby outerwear – crafted from traditional British fabric – is front and centre
-
Oliver Spencer’s new Marylebone store offers an ‘arts and crafts-inspired’ approachOliver Spencer opens a new store in the heart of London's Marylebone, with sage green interiors and repurposed materials. We speak with the designer to unpack the space’s independent style
-
Oliver Spencer’s ’Repurpose’ is a lesson in fashion circularityThe story behind Oliver Spencer’s innovative new repurposing scheme – a Wallpaper* Designer Awards 2024 winner – which sees clothes resold, reused, or recycled in a multitude of ways
-
Oliver Spencer’s summer collection is inspired by the colours and architecture of his travelsThe Oliver Spencer Summer Collection sees the British designer look towards Cuba and Colombia for riffs on classic summer silhouettes
-
Oliver Spencer’s new collection is inspired by The Bloomsbury SetTitled ‘The Bloomsbury Man’, Oliver Spencer’s A/W 2022 collection sees the designer seduced by the bohemian spirit of the Bloomsbury Set, melding their eclectic aesthetic with his contemporary vision for tailoring
-
Oliver Spencer x Fila: Wes Anderson-worthy dressing‘I am very excited to be working with such an authentic, heritage sportswear brand,' says Oliver Spencer of his collaboration with Fila
-
Oliver Spencer: ‘The suit that people go to work in is a thing of the past’Menswear designer Oliver Spencer on the sartorial sensibility of our wardrobes
-
Haute wheels: Oliver Spencer bikes up with Brompton‘I adore the Meccano look of them, which really appeals to the child in me,' says the London-based menswear designer of Brompton's fold up city bicycles