Milan Fashion Week A/W 2015: menswear collections editor’s picks

Bally: New this season is the house's Bally Ceinture belt buckle bag collection
MSGM: Long boxy coats, wide-leg jeans and plenty of great looking embellishments on cropped jackets, made Massimo Giorgetti's collection for MSGM another winter winner.
Prada: We stopped by Prada's Milan headquarters for a book club gathering of sorts as the house unveiled the winners of the Prada Journal - Prada Feltrinelli Prize 2014, with readings by Ansel Elgort, Miles Teller and Filippo Timi of the awarded stories.
Haxby: Newly launched label Haxby showed an accomplished first collection of elegant tailoring meets refined sportswear
Roberto Cavalli: Mr Cavalli fell into fall with a buttoned-up uniform of navy and black. Nothing too extravagant, but just the right details such as tone on tone brocade patterns created on muted knits, slim black leather pants and just a few of the shaggy furs that make Cavalli the go-to animal man
Emporio Armani: Cut cleanly and looking cool, the Emporio Armani show was awash with handsome grey and camel coloured knitwear and tailoring.
Fratelli Rossetti: Inspired by the 1980s television series Dallas, Fratelli Rossetti's latest collection featured cowboy-style shoes and boots with the signature Rossetti stirrup well accounted for
Diesel Black Gold: The denim mega brand delivered stellar cropped biker jackets and tailored checked blazers, dripping in silver metal trinkets and light embellishment.
No 21: Designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua took us back to school with his cool colour palette combo of burnt camel and sky blue.
Ports 1961: Designer Milan Vukmirovic worked with a star motif camouflage for his first season at Ports 1961
Tod's: Andrea Incontri continues to trump himself as menswear creative director at Tod's. The Italian designer's expertise in accessories shone through on cool, new details such as sneakers with monk strap buckles and nylon rucksacks, but also appeared on innovative clothing like herringbone stamped suede jackets
Sergio Rossi: The classic Derby gets a heavy-duty makeover with military inspired soles at Sergio Rossi
Z Zegna: Technology and tailoring come together for the 'Icon Warmer' at Z Zegna's A/W presentation
Missoni: The Trans-Siberian rail line was the Missoni muse this season, providing a rich background for the brand's beautifully buttoned-up tailoring.
Massimo Piombo: The Italian designer continues to be our favourite purveyor of dandy-esque style. For winter he’s fallen for Austrian mohair ('it’s the best in the world!'), as well as heavy shawl-dressing. 'Blankets are the new coats!' he says enthusiastically. Watch out for his new menswear store in industrial designer Gae Aulenti’s ex-atelier, which will open in June
Façonnable: Slip-on sneakers from the limited-edition Façonnable X Jean Cocteau capsule collection
Andrea Pompilio: Offering up Milan's best mix of young, edgy design, Pompilio's show at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera was a military mélange dedicated to the sophisticated aviator
Ermenegildo Zegna: A new uniform for the eco leader at Ermenegildo Zegna where designer Stefano Pilati brought together sustainability and luxury
Versace: A more pared-down outing was seen at Versace this season, which was all the better to appreciate the house's innovative use of fabrication and sharp tailoring
Larusmiani: Cashmere coats, silk puffers and cashmere plaid jackets were all new for Larusmiani this winter
Dolce & Gabbana: This season saw an ambitious ‘family affair’ themed show that offered plenty of sharp classic suiting to please grandmother, while the rock-studded and embroidered sweatshirts were pure teenage fantasy.
Neil Barrett: The designer served up urban military boy's clothes dominated by cool cut-work and enough olive green to fill a few hundred fields in Puglia.
Kiton: The Neapolitan brand celebrated the new season with a photographic exhibition titled 'Milletrecento Mani' (One Thousand Three Hundred Hands) in reference to the tailoring world.
Kiton: As far as the clothes go, velvet tuxedos played the season’s main protagonist at Kiton’s newly renovated Via Pontaccio headquarters in Milan
Santoni: The brand once again teamed up with Dimore Studio for its Milan presentation’s set design, where we couldn’t walk past the classic Santoni sneaker in mellow yellow for winter
Via Gesu: Milan's via Gesu has now officially been anointed ‘La Via Dell'Uomo’ in honour of its 15 gentleman's specialty shops
Jimmy Choo: The footwear specialist slipped into the gentleman’s boudoir for A/W with all matter of tasseled slippers
Boglioli: Working with a predominantly greyscale colourplate, Boglioli’s layered winter looks merged a range of effects that included degrade knitwear and patchworked plaids
Valextra: The newly launched men's all-in-one travel wallet holds everything the modern man needs on-the-go
Brunello Cucinelli: The Italian brand put the chino back on the map for A/W 2015, offering a casual sartorial take on traditional tailoring
Piquadro: The 360-degree video presentation accompanied Piquadro's A/W 2015 men's collection
Corneliani: A woodsy winter wonderland set the stage for Corneliani's A/W 2015 show
Costume National: Ennio Capasa’s runway was a rock 'n' roll showdown with eyelet details and zips finishing his libertine leather coats and jackets.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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