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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2015: menswear collections editor’s picks

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Bally: A pair of Pierre Jeanneret chairs set the very W* scene at Bally's A/W presentation

(Image credit: press)

By Jack Moss

last updated 18 October 2022

in Inspiration

Bags collection — **Bally:** New this season is the house's Bally Ceinture belt buckle bag collection

**MSGM:** Long boxy coats, wide-leg jeans and plenty of great looking embellishments on cropped jackets, made Massimo Giorgetti's collection for MSGM another winter winner.

**Prada:** We stopped by Prada's Milan headquarters for a book club gathering of sorts as the house unveiled the winners of the Prada Journal - Prada Feltrinelli Prize 2014, with readings by Ansel Elgort, Miles Teller and Filippo Timi of the awarded stories.

**Haxby:** Newly launched label Haxby showed an accomplished first collection of elegant tailoring meets refined sportswear

**Roberto Cavalli:** Mr Cavalli fell into fall with a buttoned-up uniform of navy and black. Nothing too extravagant, but just the right details such as tone on tone brocade patterns created on muted knits, slim black leather pants and just a few of the shaggy furs that make Cavalli the go-to animal man

the Emporio Armani show handsome grey and camel coloured knitwear and tailoring. — **Emporio Armani**: Cut cleanly and looking cool, the Emporio Armani show was awash with handsome grey and camel coloured knitwear and tailoring.

Shoes — **Fratelli Rossetti:** Inspired by the 1980s television series *Dallas*, Fratelli Rossetti's latest collection featured cowboy-style shoes and boots with the signature Rossetti stirrup well accounted for

**Diesel Black Gold:** The denim mega brand delivered stellar cropped biker jackets and tailored checked blazers, dripping in silver metal trinkets and light embellishment.

**No 21:** Designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua took us back to school with his cool colour palette combo of burnt camel and sky blue.

Duffle bag — **Ports 1961:** Designer Milan Vukmirovic worked with a star motif camouflage for his first season at Ports 1961

09 Milan Collections Editors Picks — **Tod's:** Andrea Incontri continues to trump himself as menswear creative director at Tod's. The Italian designer's expertise in accessories shone through on cool, new details such as sneakers with monk strap buckles and nylon rucksacks, but also appeared on innovative clothing like herringbone stamped suede jackets

Black shoe — **Sergio Rossi:** The classic Derby gets a heavy-duty makeover with military inspired soles at Sergio Rossi

**Z Zegna:** Technology and tailoring come together for the 'Icon Warmer' at Z Zegna's A/W presentation

Missoni: The Trans-Siberian rail line was the Missoni muse this season, providing a rich background for the brand's beautifully buttoned-up tailoring.

Missoni: The Trans-Siberian rail line was the Missoni muse this season, providing a rich background for the brand's beautifully buttoned-up tailoring.

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Massimo Piombo collection — **Massimo Piombo:** The Italian designer continues to be our favourite purveyor of dandy-esque style. For winter he’s fallen for Austrian mohair ('it’s the best in the world!'), as well as heavy shawl-dressing. 'Blankets are the new coats!' he says enthusiastically. Watch out for his new menswear store in industrial designer Gae Aulenti’s ex-atelier, which will open in June

**Façonnable:** Slip-on sneakers from the limited-edition Façonnable X Jean Cocteau capsule collection

Andrea Pompilio-Milan Fashion Week A/W 2015 — **Andrea Pompilio:** Offering up Milan's best mix of young, edgy design, Pompilio's show at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera was a military mélange dedicated to the sophisticated aviator

Ermenegildo Zegna-menswear collections editor’s picks — **Ermenegildo Zegna:** A new uniform for the eco leader at Ermenegildo Zegna where designer Stefano Pilati brought together sustainability and luxury

Versace Milan Fashion Week — **Versace:** A more pared-down outing was seen at Versace this season, which was all the better to appreciate the house's innovative use of fabrication and sharp tailoring

Larusmiani Milan Fashion Week A/W 2015 — **Larusmiani:** Cashmere coats, silk puffers and cashmere plaid jackets were all new for Larusmiani this winter

Dolce & Gabbana menswear collections editor’s picks — **Dolce & Gabbana:** This season saw an ambitious ‘family affair’ themed show that offered plenty of sharp classic suiting to please grandmother, while the rock-studded and embroidered sweatshirts were pure teenage fantasy.

Neil Barrett menswear collections editor’s picks — **Neil Barrett:** The designer served up urban military boy's clothes dominated by cool cut-work and enough olive green to fill a few hundred fields in Puglia.

Kiton menswear collections editor’s picks — **Kiton:** The Neapolitan brand celebrated the new season with a photographic exhibition titled 'Milletrecento Mani' (One Thousand Three Hundred Hands) in reference to the tailoring world.

Milan Fashion Week A/W 2015: menswear collections editor’s picks — **Kiton:** As far as the clothes go, velvet tuxedos played the season’s main protagonist at Kiton’s newly renovated Via Pontaccio headquarters in Milan

Santoni-shoes — **Santoni:** The brand once again teamed up with Dimore Studio for its Milan presentation’s set design, where we couldn’t walk past the classic Santoni sneaker in mellow yellow for winter

**Via Gesu:** Milan's via Gesu has now officially been anointed ‘La Via Dell'Uomo’ in honour of its 15 gentleman's specialty shops

Jimmy Choo shoes — **Jimmy Choo:** The footwear specialist slipped into the gentleman’s boudoir for A/W with all matter of tasseled slippers

Boglioli-menswear collections editor’s picks — **Boglioli:** Working with a predominantly greyscale colourplate, Boglioli’s layered winter looks merged a range of effects that included degrade knitwear and patchworked plaids

**Valextra:** The newly launched men's all-in-one travel wallet holds everything the modern man needs on-the-go

Brunello Cucinelli-menswear collections editor’s picks — **Brunello Cucinelli:** The Italian brand put the chino back on the map for A/W 2015, offering a casual sartorial take on traditional tailoring

bags — **Piquadro:** The 360-degree video presentation accompanied Piquadro's A/W 2015 men's collection

**Corneliani:** A woodsy winter wonderland set the stage for Corneliani's A/W 2015 show

**Costume National:** Ennio Capasa’s runway was a rock 'n' roll showdown with eyelet details and zips finishing his libertine leather coats and jackets.

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Jack Moss

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Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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