No screws. That was the manifesto of Harald Gottschling and Philipp Haffmans, two graduates from the Universität der Künste, when they launched their radical eyewear brand, Ic! Berlin, in 1996. Their first product, ‘Jack’, was a pair of metal-framed sunglasses, constructed without the use of a single screw.
Weighing just 20 grammes and looking like a pair of acid-yellow bee’s eyes on a pastry fork, the design caused initial suspicion. Yet ‘Jack’ helped pave the way for Berlin to become the international capital of independent eyewear brands, led by labels such as Mykita, Kuboraum and Lunettes Kollektion. Financially speaking, they may be minor players in the $90bn global eyewear market, but they are undeniably influential.
Mykita, based in Kreuzberg, is the largest eyewear maker in the city, with a rabid fanbase, annual revenues of €30m, and fashion credibility earned via collaborations with Damir Doma, Bernhard Willhelm and Maison Margiela. But the Berlin brand with the biggest buzz is arguably Kuboraum, known for its oversize acetate frames that, according to founders Livio Graziottin and Sergio Eusebi, are ‘made for people who are ready for something with inorganic sex appeal, but that organically fits the face’.
Their ‘Mask E3’ sunglasses are a good example. A hybrid of a welding and chemistry teacher’s goggles, the design won a Jury’s Award at last year’s Silmo Paris, the world’s leading eyewear fair. When it comes to looking ahead, all eyes are on Berlin.
As originally featured in the April 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*217)
'Sofia P' sunglasses, €319, by IC! Berlin. The brand's clever clip system means no screws or soldering are needed
INFORMATION
For more information, visit the IC! Berlin website, Kuboraum website, Lunettes Kollection website and the Mykita website
-
‘I’ve considered every single detail’: how Victoria Beckham designed the perfect make-up brush collectionVictoria Beckham speaks to Wallpaper* about the meticulous design process behind her debut collection of make-up brushes, which perfectly treads a line between form and function
-
Can Maserati modernise or is the sun setting on one of Italy’s most beloved automotive brands?Maserati’s GranTurismo Folgore is an epic electric grand tourer without equal. If only its traditionalist customers wanted it more
-
Viviane Sassen considers fine art, fashion photography and fragility in ItalyViviane Sassen’s exhibition, 'This Body Made of Stardus' at Collezione Maramotti, spans two decades off Sassen's career
-
Vans’ West End store turns skatepark, with a 200 sq m travertine rampPart store, part community hub, Vans West End in London ramps up its skateboarding credentials with a design by Andrea Caputo Studio
-
20 years of Dover Street Market’s transporting in-store installations, from giant elephants to soft toysAs Dover Street Market, Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe’s radical London concept store, celebrates its 20th anniversary, we look back at ten of its most colourful installations, crafted alongside Simone Rocha, Jonathan Anderson, Martin Parr and more
-
Alaïa’s secret new London café and bookstore is inspired by the art of hostingHoused on the third floor of Alaïa’s London flagship, the intimate space – inspired by Azzedine Alaïa’s famed hospitality – includes a Violet Cakes bakery and a bookstore by Claire de Rouen
-
‘Music is in the DNA of the brand’: AV Vattev on creating this year’s loudest accessoryRising London designer AV Vattev – who has recently outfitted Charli XCX and Troye Sivan for their viral ‘Sweat’ tour – talks about the influence of music on his ‘bold and unapologetic’ collections
-
APOC’s secret London pop-up is a curiosity shop of weird and wonderful fashionOffbeat fashion emporium APOC’s London pop-up opens in time for the holiday season, offering the work of more than 70 avant-garde designers – most of which you won’t find elsewhere – in a secret location
-
Paul Smith’s Claridge’s Christmas tree is a playful slice of ‘countryside in the centre of London’Sir Paul Smith is the latest in a long line of fashion designers to curate the iconic Claridge’s Christmas tree. Here, he talks to Wallpaper* about the inspiration behind the tree, which features bird boxes and wooden animals
-
Tour Jacquemus’ new store, a serene Mediterranean escape in central LondonSimon Porte Jacquemus has united with OMA on his latest store – a Meditteranean-inspired bolthole on London’s New Bond Street. Here, they talk Wallpaper* through the transporting space
-
The making of Loro Piana’s magical festive Harrods takeover, ‘The Workshop of Wonders’Celebrating 100 years of Loro Piana, the Italian house has taken over Harrods in time for the festive season, spanning 36 transporting windows, two pop-ups and a raft of one-of-a-kind products which embrace the spirit of giving
