Mood board: A kaleidoscopic strip of lighting illuminated creative director Julien Dossena’s long S/S 2020 runway at Palais De Tokyo (a change in venue from the recently favoured Grand Palais) – one which it was announced the morning of the show, would incorporate menswear as part of its offering. The brand is working to unite its fashion and fragrance businesses, and it’s a sensible time for it to expand its categories. Earlier this year, the label also reissued its famed ‘1969’ chainmail bag, and Business of Fashion reports it is expected to triple its revenue in 2019 after doubling it in 2018. For S/S 2020, Dossena took guests on a trippy Magic Roundabout of references, which nodded to the naiveté of the 60s and 70s, and ‘was alternately romantic, cosmic, utopic, but most of all, non-nostalgic.’ The ebullient and energetic offering was swathed in rainbow chainmail, hippie florals, swirling silk foulards and bright leather intarsia depicting sunset scenes, all sent down the runway to the psychedelic sounds of Prince’s For You.
Best in show: Dossena’s menswear had bold Woodstock-worthy appeal. Think silver suiting, leather trousers, slim stripe knits and bright pointed boots.
Team work: Dossena teamed up once again with Peter Saville on a series of graphic t-shirts, depicting psychedelic sunset scenes, and in a nod to Rabanne’s menswear debut, emblazoned with the slogan ‘Male Tales.’
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