Valentino S/S 2017
Mood board: On his first voyage as the solo creative director at Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli's show notes stated that 'a new beginning demands a certain forgetfulness.' And though his memory did stall ever slightly from the sugary softness that had characterized his work with Maria Grazia Chiuri, Valentino's style DNA of womanly femininity was still very much at the core of the collection. Valentino's famed demure dresses were still here, but many had been loosened to give a draped, tunic-like effect and the workmanship was still dizzying on delicately embroidered tulle dresses.
Best in show: The show opened with a whoppingly beautiful pink and black pleated cocktail dress with velvet appliqués. That sense of graphic goodness popped up again here and there in the collection, especially on a wonderful embroidered trench coat, but the very strongest look came as another book-end in the show, as the very last model showed off a prim, but ultra-modern full-length color-blocked gown.
Finishing touches: Flat Grecian sandals wrapped up with pretty ribbons were worn with near every look - even with mid-winter mink coats and fancy dresses. When the heel went up, it was done without the pain of a stilletto; it was just softly lifted as a a whole base on a flat form elegant sandal.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
Cartier pays tribute to ancient myths in Rome exhibitionIn ‘Cartier & Myths at the Capitoline Museums’, Cartier looks to its rich history of drawing inspiration from the ancient world
-
Is this Tokyo’s most alluring new hotel?In the world’s busiest capital, a new benchmark for serenity emerges 35 floors above ground. We checked into the Fairmont Tokyo
-
What to see at Art Basel Miami Beach 2025 – nine brilliant boothsThe buzzy Miami art fair (5-7 December) will bring together more than 280 leading international galleries and a packed week of pop-ups and parties – start with these must-see booths
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Inside the new Fondazione Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti in Rome, which opens with an ode to ‘Valentino Red’Wallpaper* gets a private tour of the new Roman institution, PM23, which opens with an exhibition of ‘dialogues’ between Valentino Garavani’s designs and a catalogue of red-hued contemporary art
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Valentino’s theatrical new exhibition celebrates the house founder’s 90th birthdayAt Teatro Sociale di Voghera, a new exhibition marks seminal designer Valentino Garavani’s 90th birthday, collating pieces from his time at the helm with ‘Valentino red’ taking centre stage
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Valentino’s new Beijing exhibition explores the role of fashion‘Re-Signify Part Two’ juxtaposes items from the Valentino archive and the work of contemporary artists such as Cao Fei, Xu Zhen, and Nick Knight
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear