Mood board: On his first voyage as the solo creative director at Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli's show notes stated that 'a new beginning demands a certain forgetfulness.' And though his memory did stall ever slightly from the sugary softness that had characterized his work with Maria Grazia Chiuri, Valentino's style DNA of womanly femininity was still very much at the core of the collection. Valentino's famed demure dresses were still here, but many had been loosened to give a draped, tunic-like effect and the workmanship was still dizzying on delicately embroidered tulle dresses.
Best in show: The show opened with a whoppingly beautiful pink and black pleated cocktail dress with velvet appliqués. That sense of graphic goodness popped up again here and there in the collection, especially on a wonderful embroidered trench coat, but the very strongest look came as another book-end in the show, as the very last model showed off a prim, but ultra-modern full-length color-blocked gown.
Finishing touches: Flat Grecian sandals wrapped up with pretty ribbons were worn with near every look - even with mid-winter mink coats and fancy dresses. When the heel went up, it was done without the pain of a stilletto; it was just softly lifted as a a whole base on a flat form elegant sandal.
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Samuel Ross begins a new chapter with Zara: ‘Clothes give you the power to transform’Samuel Ross gives Wallpaper* a first look at his ‘multi-chapter design dialogue’ with Zara, which begins with a clothing collection launching this February
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A new lakeshore cottage in Ontario is a spectacular retreat set beneath angled zinc roofsFamily Cottage by Vokac Taylor mixes spatial gymnastics with respect for its rocky, forested waterside site
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Steve McQueen presents a portrait of protest in BritainTurner Contemporary’s groundbreaking exhibition Resistance reframes the history of protest, reminding us of photography’s political potential
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Valentino’s theatrical new exhibition celebrates the house founder’s 90th birthdayAt Teatro Sociale di Voghera, a new exhibition marks seminal designer Valentino Garavani’s 90th birthday, collating pieces from his time at the helm with ‘Valentino red’ taking centre stage
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Valentino’s new Beijing exhibition explores the role of fashion‘Re-Signify Part Two’ juxtaposes items from the Valentino archive and the work of contemporary artists such as Cao Fei, Xu Zhen, and Nick Knight
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Valentino Des Atelier Haute Couture sees fashion and art collideSeventeen contemporary artists enter a dynamic dialogue around dressing to create Valentino’s A/W 2021 Des Ateliers Haute Couture collection
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
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Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
