Mood board: Luke and Lucie Meier presented their second collection for Jil Sander for A/W 2018, a serene and protective men’s and women’s collection packed with enveloping garments, soft padding, and cocooning shapes. The duo were inspired by protective garments for future, but these were not cold or mechanical, they were warm, insulating and swaddling. A puffy knitted jacket layered with delicate organza, boots resembling soft leg warmers, a bobbing circular skirt in translucent nylon knit, a men’s navy cape, jackets with tubes of wool wrapped around the elbow. This was a collection for the future that nodded to the past- the garments boasted a monastic serenity, and were finished with courtly ruching, and corsetry. The duo have spoken of their desire to re-educate the customer about the belief Sander is a purely minimalist brand- and they achieved this with glittering floral jacquards taken from the nineties Sander archive and fake fur overcoats in pretty pansy prints.
Finishing touches: accessories were integral to the brand’s concept of protection. Models carried soft folded duvets and pillows, a warming muff doubled up as a bag, shrugs in comforting tea towel stripes were padded like protective blankets.
Best in show: Luke and Lucie Meier’s skill in fabrication is exquisite, their clothes are ones you want to touch. The duo’s aforementioned knitted wool tailoring which was topped with organza, resembled a hazy cloud. Elsewhere a cocoon shape tweed coat had pockets lined with ribbed knit, details you want to delve into, soft and serene protection for the future.
-
In the foothills of the Bavarian Alps, Chiemgauhof Lakeside Retreat elevates cabin-style charmArchitect Matteo Thun gives a masterclass in clean lines and traditional craftsmanship with this stylish German retreat in harmony with its surroundings
-
Richard Prince recontextualises archival advertisements in TexasThe artist unites his ‘Posters’ – based on ads for everything from cat pictures to nudes – at Hetzler, Marfa
-
Pierre-Yves Rochon celebrates ‘the great tradition of Italian design’ in Four Seasons Hotel Milano refreshThe sophisticated hotel’s 118 rooms and suites have been redesigned by the acclaimed designer and long-time collaborator of the brand
-
With an ode to Italy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake brings its brand of fashion magic to Florence’s Pitti UomoMarking the start of a new nomadic way of showing for the Japanese label, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake held its S/S 2026 show at Florence’s Villa Medicea della Petraia as part of Pitti Uomo last night (18 June) with a collection inspired by the colours and textures of Italy
-
Milan exhibition celebrates 20 years of Armani Privé: ‘Haute couture is fashion when it becomes art’Hosted at the Tadao Ando-designed Armani/Silos, ‘Giorgio Armani Privé 2005-2025, Twenty Years of Haute Couture’ displays an expansive collection of the Italian designer’s showstopping haute couture creations
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022: ‘Fendace' to FerragamoFashion Week returns to form in the Italian home of style and design. Here is everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Jil Sander on the purist principles of her Uniqlo collaborationIn celebration of +J, Wallpaper's quality maniac-at-large Nick Vinson speaks to Jil Sander about her upcoming A/W 2020 collaboration with Uniqlo
