Hedi Slimane chose a new spot for his Saint Laurent show this season at Le Carreau du Temple. Upon walking into the cavernous 19th century steel and glass hall, guests were greeted with thirteen long gold metal blocks that ran crossways along the runway like giant logs. Just when we were beginning to wonder how the models might manoeuvre around such a road-block, all thirteen of the rectangles suddenly awakened from their slumber and began to slowly levitate upwards in a split drawbridge formation, without a single sound, until they lined the runway vertically like street lamps. It was a brash and beautiful move on Slimane's part and more than just a little proof of this designer's deftness with exhilarating production design. From there, the clothes came out and Slimane did what he does best: sassy, sexy fashion with a rock 'n' roll edge. The key silhouette was a micro mini skirt or just-as-short long sleeved dress worn with black tights and low-heeled shiny patent leather Go-go boots. Slimane doesn't over think his shapes; they all come in straightforward, easily digestible packages. In addition to the aforementioned, there were slim, short coats and clean capes with a 1960s flair, and worn with glittering Mary Jane shoes. Slimane jazzed up the basic shapes of his clothing with showers of colour-blocked sequins, rich velvet, or graphically dotted or striped black and white mink fur. The highlight of the show for us (clothes wise, at least) was a magnificent mink cape with micro splinters of multi-coloured intarsia.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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