Maison Martin Margiela A/W 2014

The invitation to Maison Martin Margiela's Winter show was written in white shiny marker on a white matte background, which made it practically invisible to all but the most eagle-eyed of show guests. One assumed that either infrared rays would materialise to shed light on the seat assignment situation, or that some clues to the clear theme might unfurl on the runway. That, however, was not to be. Though the design team began with some filmy négligée-inspired layers, wispy slips and a couple lace shells that were worn like cages over denser tops and day dresses, transparency turned out not to be the main theme for this show. But that was of little consequence, as there was plenty of other meat to sink our teeth into - most notably the mannish tailoring and menswear fabrications that Margiela tweaked with its signature quirk. Classic houndstooth, Prince of Wales check, and Harris tweed all got thrown into the Margiela spin cycle, emerging as coats with cropped fronts and trailing backs and jackets that featured prominently structured couture-like shoulders with unfinished seams. Though there were the usual humorous winks, such as a 'Harris Tweed' label worn like a prized logo on the outside of the clothing, or delicate ribbons holding together deconstructed suits, this was actually one of the most tame and wearable collections we've seen lately from this house. It turns out that when Margiela cools the hijinx, they deliver some pretty terrific clothes.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans