Kenzo designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have been mining from the mysterious oeuvre of film director David Lynch for their last two collections, an indirect homage that came to a more marked crescendo for Winter. Rather than admiring the cutting-edge director from afar, the New York-based duo actually lassoed him in the flesh to design both the set and music for today's Paris show. The result was as creepy as you might expect: a giant wavy mirror backdrop featured a huge cadaver-like skull with punched-out eye pockets that floated eerily within a glass box. It had a horror-like element to it that was in synch, in some ways, with the Kenzo invitation: a black block whose inner core glowed like an icy blue igloo. What all of these cool effects had to do with the clothes on the runway remained somewhat of a mystery, but as a whole, the nicely produced package was all well appreciated. This was, in fact, a very strong collection for Leon and Lim, as they upgraded their signature sporty clothes into something a bit more glamorous and expensive looking. Intricate jacquards, embroideries, sequin bedazzled knitwear and elaborate printing techniques added a luxurious new layer to the collection this season. The designers relied heavily on co-ordinated separates, such as elongated skirts with matching jackets or sweaters, which gave the looks a precise air, despite their zany patterns. Quirk is this brand's new middle name, so it was good to see these designers maintaining their frenetic, street-fused spirit in patterned turtleneck sweaters, quilted suiting and oversized hooded outwear, but pushing these pieces into a more sophisticated stage.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
