The opening show to London Fashion Week took the name of 'Hysteria', a theme that extended outside of Somerset House's main tent too, thanks to the sideways rain that washed away the fast fame hopes of many a drenched street style poser. Once seated, a black-and-white photography projection of frenzied female fans from 1960s Brit pop culture greeted us with their high-pitched squeals. Was this set to be a counterculture Youthquake? As the lights came up, it was clear that Choi had smartly ducked any 'swinging' clichés, instead championing the Mod-era's silhouettes with a youthful modernity. Shaking things up, plaid peacoats and Prince of Wales-check capes were cut with a cool slouch, thanks to their rounded backs and double-breasted fastenings, just as the designer added a masculine edge to his shifts and baby doll dresses, by inserting fluted cotton collars. Choi's girl may have paid homage to the Sixties' most famous groupies, Anita Pallenberg and Marianne Faithfull, but her grey Mongolian shearling shrug, nonchalantly draped over crisp white shirting and later a plaid trench, was a sure mover and shaker, rather than a follower. So were the Korean designer's cropped cigarette pants, cut for the physique of a Rolling Stone, and finished with fringed, tri-colour Cuban heeled loafers - designed in collaboration with Joanne Stoker. Their colour-blocked hues reminiscent of Sixties interiors could have led Choi into muddy waters, but paired with A/W's man-style tailoring, they're sure to attract a fan base all of their own - if they can outsmart the crowd already waiting for his finale winter white onesie that is.
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Own an early John Lautner, perched in LA’s Echo Park hillsThe restored and updated Jules Salkin Residence by John Lautner is a unique piece of Californian design heritage, an early private house by the Frank Lloyd Wright acolyte that points to his future iconic status
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20 things that positively delighted us in and around Design Miami this yearFrom covetable 20th-century masterpieces to a tower made from ceramic pickles, these were the works that stood out amid the blur of Art Week
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Montcalm Mayfair opens a new chapter for a once-overlooked London hotelA thoughtful reinvention brings craftsmanship, character and an unexpected sense of warmth to a London hotel that was never previously on the radar
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‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
