Cottweiler S/S 2018
Mood board: Last season Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty presented their inaugural collaboration with Reebok at Pitti Uomo. For S/S 2018, their clothes were shown against a backdrop of imposing pastel-coloured motorhomes, installed in the centre of a large warehouse space. The designers travelled to the Californian desert for research and were struck by the escapism promised by the vast landscape, improbably located just beyond the fringes of an RV showroom. They explored this tension between the synthetic and the natural world. The collection saw re-made and repurposed signature pieces with added curved panels, lines and cuts to resemble RV dashboards. Cork shell was skimmed into zip-up sports jackets and tight shorts; patterned knitwear and tufting were inspired by the interiors of motorhomes.
Finishing touches: The collection was accessorised with two Reebok trainers. One was a reissue from the label’s debut available in new colourways. Standout was the style described backstage by Dainty as ‘three shoes in one’ and inspired by the Marathon des Sables – otherwise known as the toughest foot race on Earth. Lycra gaiters (more commonly used in desert mountain gear) came encased in safety wear straps and an enlarged 3D-printed overshoe.
Sound bite: ‘Every season we research a lot of textured, technical fabrics but also how they mix with basic materials too,’ explains Dainty. ‘We’ve always been interested in technology and exploring environments and thinking about how those two come together. We always like to contradict what we do and push ourselves to not be predictable.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Three sleek new design showrooms you need to see in Los Angeles
Three international design showrooms have started a retail design boom in Los Angeles. Here are the stores to put on your radar
By Carole Dixon Published
-
Brutalism in film: the beautiful house that forms the backdrop to The Room Next Door
The Room Next Door's production designer discusses mood-boarding and scene-setting for a moving film about friendship, fragility and the final curtain
By Anne Soward Published
-
How Leigh Bowery and the Blitz Kids defined 1980s subculture with make-up
As Leigh Bowery and the Blitz Kids of 1980s London are celebrated in a new exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum, Isobel Van Dyke explores the hair and make-up looks that defined them
By Isobel Van Dyke Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated