Cerruti 1881 A/W 2017

Four models in black and maroon clothing looking directly at the camera

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: Cerruti 1881 celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. Naturally, in his third season as chief creative officer, Jason Basmajian looked back over the house’s rich archive, pulling on garments and photographs. Today’s Cerruti man favours a diverse approach to dressing – for A/W 2017, archival pieces are reinterpreted in new fabrications, like an oversized checked jacquard and chevron pony skin. The tailoring was standout. A modern take on the three-piece suit saw a more relaxed shoulder with longer proportions, a full high-waist trouser and round neck gilet with covered buttons.

Scene setting: Basmajian’s first runway show was set within a darkened room. A frame of light channels pulsed as guests nervously waited. Nino Cerruti’s voice was heard in a pre-recorded conversation over the din of the crowd, talking about the traditions of the company he founded in 1967. He spoke about the beauty and purity of the water used to wash and treat the wool at Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti – the label’s mill in Biella, Italy. He reflected upon his own pioneering efforts that have pushed forward textile innovation for five decades. He spoke too about inventiveness and the freedom of youth.

Sound bite: ‘Nino Cerruti’s vision and philosophy have always been an inspiration to me on moving the brand forward. We've shown static presentations to this point but I felt like a catwalk would be more fitting to mark and celebrate 50 years of Cerruti heritage,’ Basmajian said pre-show. ‘It seemed like a natural progression for the brand and the best way to show the new Cerruti man and his universe.’ A/W 2017 combines that technical inventiveness with a cinematic, confident joie de vivre.

Cerruti 1881 A/W 2017. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Three models in Maroon and black clothing posing for the camera, one with a large scarf and one with sunglasses

A side shot of three models posing for a different camera in grey and brown knitwear

Five people in a row the two far left distracted and the three on the right posing

A line of models pose for the camera, with some looking elsewhere. A few wear sunglasses and some don't

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.