Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: Guests trudged up flights of stairs outdoors, passing shops selling vintage cowboy boots, before entering a vast space that was one taken up by Galleries Lafayette, one of Paris’ most renowned department stores. The venue was a symbolic fit — creative director Glenn Martens is renowned for taking something classic and twisted it into something new and remarkably contemporary. His references range from the Belle Époque to retro sportswear. For A/W 2020, he continued his exploration with a collection encompassing twisted ribbed knit dresses, spliced together with vinyl bomber jackets, medieval smocks in glittery gold, Delphic draped dresses and deconstructed pinstripe blazers, overlaid with layers of organza.

Best in show: Twisted denim is a Y/Project signature, and for autumn Martens layered denim chaps over sexy frilled camisoles creates a fluid houndstooth dress with a sexy pelvic cut out, with a triangle of blue jean peeping through.

Finishing touches: Concentric circles of metal adorned the ear — Martens loves an enormous earring. Leather belts has ‘Y’ buckles in an ironic take on a bourgeois staple and leather bags were shaped like folded accordions.