Paul Smith A/W 2016
Paul Smith ushers in a new season of trouser shapes, while Lanvin Homme focuses on the craft of making

Mood board: 'This is really about echoing what I was doing when I first started,' Paul Smith said of his latest men’s collection. Smith opened his first shop in Nottingham in 1970 hence the layering of embroidery, pattern on pattern and denim. Presented in the glorious circular hall of the Bourse de Commerce, the clothes (jeans embellished with paisley, precise reversible shearlings and breezy flared trousers) were seventies-ish but felt totally modern.
Best in show: The look was designed around a layered wardrobe. Cashmere was worn with Liberty print, underneath shearling and with denim. The season ushers in three new trouser shapes too: a fuller leg with front pleat, a skinny fit and the standout slim flare.
Sound bite: 'I suppose it’s to do with the mix of things,' Smith said of the collection backstage. 'This season echoes what I used to wear and how I used to dress. And then world went very monochrome, very minimal, very black and white at some point. All black, navy, navy and black, all black; it still astounds me how may people enjoy black so much. It probably takes more effort to wear colour; but I don’t think that’s necessarily a bad thing!'
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
The Sialia 45 cruiser is a welcome addition to the new generation of electric boats
Polish shipbuilder Sialia Yachts has launched the Sialia 45, a 14m all-electric cruiser for silent running
By Jonathan Bell
-
Tokyo design studio We+ transforms microalgae into colours
Could microalgae be the sustainable pigment of the future? A Japanese research project investigates
By Danielle Demetriou
-
What to see at London Craft Week 2025
With London Craft Week just around the corner, Wallpaper* rounds up the must-see moments from this year’s programme
By Francesca Perry
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
By Laura Hawkins
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
By Laura Hawkins
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins