Mood board: Oliver Spencer channelled a leisurely Dandy for A/W 2016, an eclectic individual who’s not afraid to wear a sleeveless knitted top with rusty yellow, orange and red stripes, a patchwork suede jacket, or a high-waisted trouser that hits right above the ankle.
Best in show: A black Astrakhan hat and a long, luxurious coat in the same material diverged from the rest of the show’s character. We couldn’t help but associate this look with Hamid Karzai, the traditional but stylish ex-president of Afghanistan.
Sound bite: ‘It’s about rhythm,’ said the designer backstage after the show. ‘I like to deliver upbeat shows, but I was being slightly more conceptual this season, trying to send out clothing that was more theatrical and that had more of an edge to it.’
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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One to watch: Chiara Lionello’s practice finds beauty in simple gesturesThe Milan-based designer and architect works across multiple disciplines to create objects and spaces that are shaped by experiences and memories
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Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello curates four rare Charlotte Perriand reissuesThese lesser-seen Charlotte Perriand furniture designs are reissued in a limited edition and on display at Paris' Galerie Patrick Seguin (until 22 November 2025)
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Viewers are cast as voyeurs in Tai Shani’s crimson-hued London exhibitionBritish artist Tai Shani creates mystical other worlds through sculpture, performance and film. Step inside at Gathering
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
