Fab 40: Independent perfumers
[B]Nez à Nez[/B]
Christa Patout and Stéphane Humbert Lucas are the husband and wife team behind Nez à Nez. Their creative process is largely governed by Lucas’ synaesthesia. Each fragrance is constructed like a painting, resulting in unexpected combinations. ‘Atelier d’Artiste’, inspired by Lucas’s painting studio, is a rum, tobacco and vetiver blend cut with raspberry. ‘I’m attracted to bad smells,’ says Lucas candidly, ‘but I want to transform them into good smells.’
[B]Honoré des Prés[/B]
To see through his ambition to build an organic fine fragrance brand that was truly fine and truly organic, Christian David (formerly of Dior and Sisley), persuaded Olivia Giacobetti to join him. It’s the first time such a highly regarded nose has tackled eco-certed scents. Producing refined and rounded scents using only organic ingredients is a highly technical challenge, but the Honoré des Prés team prove it can be done.
In 1995, when just 25, Francis Kurkdjian created Gaultier’s Le Mâle, one of the best selling scents of the decade, and joined perfume aristocracy. He has created countless designer fragrances since, but has always pursued personal projects. This autumn he fulfills his ambition to found his own fragrance house in the grand old tradition of a Maison Guerlain or Creed. Self-funded, his Paris boutique has all the poise of those greats, and the refined scents, topped with zinc stoppers and embellished with a simple timeless logo, suggest a classic brand in the making. But none of his sense of adventure is gone. Scented leather bracelets, fragrant bubble blowing kits, and lightly scented laundry detergent – for whites, and for darks - stamp his personality into the fabric of the house.
[B]Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan [/B]
After an early career in advertising, Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan enrolled at perfume school in order to follow a dream and develop her own brand. Passionate about books and travelling she has modelled her bottles on 1930s book sleeves, and brings out annual collections that reflect the moment – she describes her perfumes as bottled history. Voleur de Ciel is an olfactory interpretation of clouds, and a top seller.