Cubitts zooms in on the origins of optometry in London exhibition

While we’re used to exhibitions tracing the topography and architecture of London’s streets, or shows tracing the city’s sociopolitical or photographic heritage, Cubitts has us seeing clearly with its latest exhibition – one which zooms in on London’s history in the field of optometry.
‘Retrospective: London, Spectacles and Half a Millenia’ – an outdoors exhibition located a stone’s throw from the optical brand’s Jermyn Street boutique in St James’s – is made up of a tessellation of glass and timber vitrines showcasing glasses, materials and memorabilia that document London’s optometrical history.
Ever pondered when the first pair of glasses with temples was made? (by Edward Scarlett in 1730). What the first pair of sunglasses looked like? (horse-shoe shaped, gold-rimmed and made by James Ayscough in 1752). Or if opticals were say prescribed as a cure to sexually transmitted diseases? (blue tinted lenses were believed to cure syphilis). Now you have the optometrical answer.
12-ct rolled gold pince-nez, by Aitchison, UK, 1880s
The exhibition documents the earliest age of optometry, tracing the invention of sunglasses to counter what James Ayscough termed as ‘offensive glaring light’, the evolution of fashion-focused frames (cat-eyes were the first sartorial shape), the array of now extremely stylish NHS frames available during the 1970s, and the possibilities of creating glasses in a variety of sustainable materials, like a natural fibre glass made from wool.
The oldest pair of glasses were found in London’s Trig Lane and are nearly 600 years old. In celebration of six centuries of spectacles, Cubitts has also created a new pair made from materials found mudlarked from the banks of the River Thames. A Frame for London features a bullet from the Second World War, clay smoking pipes, a Victorian marble, and like the earliest pair picked up in the city, animal bones.
‘People really don’t know a huge amount about the history of optometry,’ muses Cubitts' founder Tom Broughton. This is the perfect pitstop for sharpening your focus.
Exhibition artefacts
A Frame for London, by Cubitts
Original spectacle box by Dollond & Co, London
Sun Spectacles glare guards, (1940s), by Cleevis, London
INFORMATION
‘Retrospective: London, Spectacles and Half a Millenia’ is on view until 15 February. For more information, visit the Cubitts website
ADDRESS
St James’s Market Pavilion
11 St Alban’s Street
St James’s
London
SW1Y 4SQ
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Vestre’s neo-brutalist furniture will bring ‘a little madness’ to Paris Fashion Week
Bound for Paris Men’s Fashion Week this month, Norwegian furniture brand Vestre reveals a sculptural bench and mirror created with designer Vincent Laine and fashion creative Willy Cartier – the latest outcome of its risk-taking ‘a little madness’ initiative
-
For its latest runway show, Zegna creates a serene oasis in Dubai
The Italian fashion house took over the Dubai Opera for a S/S 2026 show that proposed a lived-in elegance, drawing inspiration from Dubai’s sunbaked landscapes and Zegna’s birthplace of Trivero
-
Time-travel to the golden age of the cruise ship at Sea Containers London
The South Bank hotel celebrates its tenth anniversary with four new suites inspired by period cabin design, from Edwardian elegance to 1980s glamour
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's