After just over two years at the helm, it has been announced this morning that Sabato De Sarno is set to leave his role as creative director of Gucci. The house’s upcoming runway show during Milan Fashion Week in March will be created by the Gucci ‘design office’.
‘I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honoured Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment,’ said Stefano Cantino, Gucci’s CEO, in a statement.
Replacing Alessandro Michele, De Sarno was announced as the Italian house’s creative director in January 2023, overseeing Gucci’s womenswear, menswear, leather goods, accessories and lifestyle collections. Beginning his career at Prada in 2005, before moving to Dolce & Gabbana, it was in 2009 that he would join Valentino – a formative move which would see him become the house’s fashion director.
Sabato De Sarno exits Gucci
Gucci’s S/S 2025 runway show, held this past September in Milan
A debut collection for Gucci would see him celebrate ‘the joy of life’, riffing on wardrobe classics with flourishes of embellishment and craft. Such an approach would become a hallmark of his tenure. ‘It’s a story of the joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people,’ he said at the time. The collection also introduced ‘Ancora’ red, a deep oxblood red which would become his hallmark.
He would also forge links with the design world, hosting shows at Milan’s Triennale museum and reissuing a number of Italian furniture classics in Ancora red, including a Mario Bellini sofa, as part of Salone del Mobile in 2024. He would also hold his first Cruise show in the Herzog & de Meuron-designed Tanks in London’s Tate Modern (a ‘tapestry’ of plants would backdrop the show).
But falling sales would plague the designer, with Gucci reporting losses of 25 per cent in the final quarter of 2024. The critical reaction to his shows would also be mixed, though he introduced a number of high-profile ambassadors to the house, including the actor Paul Mescal.
Sabato De Sarno’s reissue of a Mario Bellini sofa in Gucci ‘Ancora’ red, as seen in Wallpaper*
The exit continues a period of flux for the fashion industry: just last week Kim Jones exited Dior, while Fendi remains without a creative lead. Gucci’s new creative director will be announced in ‘due time’.
’I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work that has been done to further strengthen Gucci’s fundamentals,’ adds Francesca Bellettini, Kering deputy CEO in charge of brand development. ‘Stefano and the new artistic direction will continue to build on this and to guide Gucci towards renewed fashion leadership and sustainable growth.’
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