Hedi Slimane heads to Hollywood for ‘Age of Indieness’ Celine show
Hedi Slimane brought Celine to Los Angeles’ Wiltern Theatre yesterday evening with a high-voltage collection titled ‘The Age of Indieness’
Yesterday evening (8 December 2022), in a high-octane spectacle befitting its location – Los Angeles’ Wiltern Theatre, one of the great movie palaces of Hollywood’s golden era – Hedi Slimane presented his Winter 2023 collection for Celine, an 87-look co-ed outing the French designer titled ‘The Age of Indieness’.
It marked a homecoming of sorts for the designer, who resided in Los Angeles for several years and has long drawn inspiration from the city’s nightlife and music scenes. Backdropped by an enormous lit-up version of the house’s double-C ‘Triomphe’ monogram – its shimmering design reminiscent of the opulent art deco surrounds of the theatre, which was built in 1931 – the show itself was defined by the insouciant, undone glamour that has become synonymous with Slimane’s tenure at the house.
Celine by Hedi Slimane Winter 2023
The collection’s title seemed to suggest a link to Slimane’s recent S/S 2023 womenswear offering – shown via a short film last month – which the house called an ‘indie summer’, ’a renaissance of Hedi Slimane’s 2000s era’ (notably, it heralded the return of what the house called ‘The Original Skinny Jean’, which Slimane introduced during his influential time as creative director of Dior Homme). Here, those jeans returned – tucked into slouchy leather boots and worn with an undone vest or jacket – alongside other pieces reminiscent of ‘The Age of Indieness’, among them miniature frilled dresses, leather and sequinned jackets, sliced-away denim shorts, fringed suede boots, lean tailoring and military-inspired blazers.
A flurry of evening wear – from strappy liquefied sequin and silk gowns to a golden mini dress worn by house muse Kaia Gerber – closed the show, no doubt prized by the high-wattage Hollywood crowd who occupied the show’s front row (including Brie Larson, Austin Butler and Priscilla Presley). Celine noted each of these couture garments was entirely stitched by hand.
Music, as ever, remained central to Slimane’s vision; in the show’s accompanying release, he listed the numerous bands who have taken to the Wiltern’s stage in its history – from Prince and The Rolling Stones to Sonic Youth and The Strokes. For this occasion, the original soundtrack was titled ‘Hello Operator’, performed by the White Stripes and written and produced by Jack White (Slimane commissioned and co-produced the track). As the show ended, an after party ensued, with performances from Interpol, The Strokes, and Iggy Pop – the last having taken to the Wilton stage in 2007 as part of a tour by Iggy and the Stooges.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
-
Focal launches Diva Utopia, wireless speakers for aesthetically minded audiophiles
Focal’s felt-clad Diva Utopia speakers bring high-fidelity wireless sound to a huge range of audio applications
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Watch: Jamie Dornan takes a bath in Le Courbusier’s villa for Loewe Perfumes
Jamie Dornan stars alongside Sophie Wilde in the new Loewe Perfumes 2024 campaign, shot by David Sims in Le Corbusier’s Villa Savoye
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
One to watch: Casey Zablocki’s Rocky Mountain surroundings feed into his vast sculptural work
Montana-based artist Casey Zablocki uses one of America’s largest kilns to create monumental ceramic, functional sculptures
By Dan Howarth Published
-
Hedi Slimane to leave Celine after seven years; Michael Rider named as successor
Hedi Slimane will leave Celine after a seven-year tenure as artistic, creative and image director across fashion, beauty and lifestyle at the French couture house, with Michael Rider – an alumnus of Phoebe Philo’s Celine – named as his successor
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine collection is an homage to the leading ladies of 1960s France: watch the film
Inspired by listening to The Velvet Underground and Nico while re-reading Françoise Sagan, Hedi Slimane pays ode to legendary French it-girls like Sagan, Françoise Hardy and Juliette Gréco with a collection rooted in the liberatory spirit of the 1960s
By Jack Moss Published
-
A guide to the best fashion stores London has to offer
As London Fashion Week arrives in the British capital today (13 September 2024), Wallpaper* picks the must-visit London fashion stores – from big-name boutiques and classic department stores to the best in vintage, alongside the sleek and experimental
By Jack Moss Published
-
Hedi Slimane takes Celine to Norfolk for ‘Anglomania’ menswear collection: watch the film
Inspired by Evelyn Waugh’s ‘Bright Young Things’, Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine menswear collection is captured by the designer in a romantic short film set at the Palladian Holkham Hall on England’s Norfolk coastline
By Jack Moss Published
-
Why solid soap is the most pleasurable object to bathe with
Solid soap provides a tactile bathing experience like no other. Hannah Tindle explores why in the September 2024 Style Issue of Wallpaper*, with soaps by Chanel, Celine, Diptyque, and more, photographed by Sophie Gladstone
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
’What is the life of a woman?’: Nadège Vanhée on a decade of womenswear at Hermès
For the past ten years, Nadège Vanhée, head of womenswear at Hermès, has steered the French maison on a quietly rebellious path, exploring notions of contemplation, liberation and sensuality. Speaking to fashion features editor Jack Moss, she unpacks her evolution
By Jack Moss Published
-
Wallpaper* September 2024, The Style Issue, is on newsstands now: discover the looks of the season
Wallpaper* September 2024, The Style Issue, heralds sensual dressing for the season ahead. Hear from Dior’s Kim Jones, Hermès’ Nadège Vanhée, and tour Karl Lagerfeld’s bookshop
By Bill Prince Published
-
Celine Beauté by Hedi Slimane arrives in Harrods with an ‘effortless’ red lipstick
Hedi Slimane’s Celine Beauté line pre-launches this month in Harrods with its ‘Rouge Triomphe’ lipstick
By Hannah Tindle Last updated