Artist Liu Bolin explores the hidden depths of champagne production at French house Ruinart
Since 2002, French champagne house Ruinart – established in 1729, and now owned by LVMH – has collaborated with a contemporary artist, tapping them to create works of art inspired by its products. Past collaborators have included Maarten Baas, Piet Hein Eek and Erwin Olaf, with Chinese artist Liu Bolin chosen for 2018. ‘We’d wanted to work with Bolin for a long time,’ says Frédéric Dufour, Ruinart’s CEO. ‘He’s an artist who stands for something.’
Bolin, aka ‘the invisible man’, is known for painting his body and photographing himself camouflaged against diverse backgrounds – a comment on man’s relationship to his surroundings. In August 2017, just prior to the grape harvest, he spent ten days at Ruinart, producing eight photographs of the estate and the people working there.
Throughout the year, these works will travel to more than 30 major art fairs, including Art Basel, Frieze and FIAC. But you can also visit the scene of where it all took place, with a two-hour Ruinart tour that offers the advantage of champagne tasting.
Ruinart’s story stretches back to the 17th-century Benedictine monk Dom Thierry Ruinart, who lived in an abbey close enough to Paris to learn about a new ‘wine with bubbles’ that was driving the aristocrats wild. When he returned to his native Champagne region, he told his brother that he believed the beverage had serious potential. In 1729, Dom Ruinart’s nephew Nicolas created the world’s first champagne house and soon after, Nicolas’ son, Claude Ruinart, moved the estate to its current address in Reims with the ingenious idea of using the local crayères (chalk pits) to store the champagne. With a constant temperature of around 10°C and close to 100 per cent humidity, they provided the ideal conditions for maturation.
The Gallo-Romans started excavating the region’s crayères two millennia ago, using the chalk to build Reims. Today, the crayères and their connecting tunnels zigzag for hundreds of miles underground. They are beautiful and mysterious, with narrow openings at the surface expanding into vast white chambers below. They have served the interests of monks, smugglers and Second World War soldiers, and their rough white walls bear religious icons, graffiti and other marks of this rich history. In 2015, Unesco classified them a World Heritage Site.
In Ruinart’s crayères, the deepest locally, several hundred thousand bottles of bubbly age slowly in the dim golden light. Last year the company decided to renovate a ‘secret’ crayère that had collapsed after the Second World War, hiring five climbers to reinforce the walls. It will now be an oenothèque where VVIPs can taste particularly old vintages.
As well as the crayères, what moved Bolin about Ruinart was the human element in its manufacturing processes, the centuries of expertise behind the employees’ skills. ‘These people are working here, their life is here, so it was important to have them in the photographs,’ he says. To symbolise the ‘invisible’ hands behind each bottle of champagne, the artist posed with several workers – disappearing into the fields with the cellarmaster and into the disgorgement production line with three of its operators. He also posed with Pablo Lopez, one of the house’s two riddlers. Lopez practises a rare ancestral craft, ‘reading’ the champagne by hand, tilting and rotating the bottles in order to draw the sediment into the neck so that it can be removed later. In that photograph, he and Bolin are camouflaged against gyropalettes, the machines that take over once Lopez has programmed them to reproduce his gesture.
Ruinart’s previous artistic collaborations are displayed at the estate in Reims, as is the first piece the house ever commissioned, an advertisement designed in 1896 by Czech artist Alphonse Mucha. As part of his project, Bolin paid tribute to that original collaboration by painting himself into Mucha’s art nouveau poster.
And when Bolin unveiled his Ruinart photographs during a party in March 2018 at the Grand Palais in Paris, the chic, champagne-sipping crowd watched in fascination as the artist disappeared into an oversized version of Jean-François de Troy’s 1735 painting Le Déjeuner d'Huîtres (said to be the first in history to depict a bottle of champagne), only to become part of another chic, champagne-sipping party from three centuries ago.
As originally featured in the October 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*235)
INFORMATION
Tours of the crayères, including champagne tasting, cost €70 per person. To book, visit the Ruinart website
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Find yourself at Six Senses Kyoto, the brand's breathtaking Japan debut
Six Senses Kyoto opens its doors boasting tranquil, luxurious interiors by Blink Design Group
By Danielle Demetriou Published
-
Shigeru Ban’s mini Paper Log House welcomed at The Glass House
'Shigeru Ban: The Paper Log House' is shown at The Glass House in New Canaan, USA as the house museum of American architect Philip Johnson plays host to the Japanese architect’s model temporary home concept
By Adrian Madlener Published
-
Artist Mickalene Thomas wrestles with notions of Black beauty, female empowerment and love
'Mickalene Thomas: All About Love’, a touring exhibition, considers Black female representation
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Château Galoupet is teaching the world how to drink more responsibly
From reviving an endangered Provençal ecosystem to revisiting wine packaging, Château Galoupet aims to transform winemaking from terroir to bottle
By Mary Cleary Last updated
-
London’s most refreshing summer cocktail destinations
Cool down in the sweltering city with a visit to London’s summer cocktail destinations
By Mary Cleary Last updated
-
Learn how to curate a simple cheese board with perfect port pairings
The experts at artisan cheesemonger Paxton & Whitfield share tips for curating a simple but sophisticated cheese board, with port and cheese pairings for every taste
By Melina Keays Last updated
-
IWA sake brewery by Kengo Kuma is Best Roofscape: Wallpaper* Design Awards 2022
IWA sake brewery in Japan, by Kengo Kuma & Associates, scoops Best Roofscape at the Wallpaper* Design Awards 2022
By Tony Chambers Last updated
-
The Chuan Malt Whisky Distillery by Neri & Hu offers a twist on Chinese tradition
Neri & Hu designs headquarters for The Chuan Malt Whisky Distillery in China's Sichuan province
By Yoko Choy Last updated
-
St Pancras Renaissance Hotel opens Booking Office 1869 restaurant
Booking Office 1869 restaurant, at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, is set to become a new London hotspot. Developer Harry Handelsman and designer Hugo Toro tell us about its creation
By Mary Cleary Last updated
-
Sweet Sauternes: France’s forgotten wine gets a reputational makeover
Saskia de Rothschild is on a mission to revive the popularity of Sauternes white wine, with Rieussec, produced and packaged with a fresh, more sustainable approach
By Mary Cleary Last updated
-
Le Dôme by Foster + Partners perfectly blends architecture and landscape
Foster + Partners’ new winery for French producer Le Dôme is a perfectly balanced blend of architecture and landscape
By Natasha Levy Last updated