Brioni’s historical palazzo on Milan’s via Gesù has played a very important part in our Handmade exhibitions over the years. At our inaugural show in 2010, the palazzo courtyard played host to an installation by Carmody Groarke, celebrating the 12,000 stitches required for a Brioni suit. The following year it became the backdrop for our collaboration with Konstantin Grcic, an interpretation of a Brioni cape displayed in an oversized cage. And, in 2012, a David Kohn-designed pavilion in the courtyard screened a humorous short film by artistic duo Lernert & Sander. This year, we returned to the courtyard, now newly renovated, to host 'Table Setting', a new collaborative work by Brioni and Lobmeyr.
When designing this year’s A/W collection for Brioni, creative director Brendan Mullane had turned to Vienna’s Spanish Riding School and the Wiener Werkstätte for inspiration. In response to this Austrian influence, we worked with Mullane alongside celebrated Viennese glassmaker Lobmeyr to honour the country’s aesthetic heritage. The result of our creative conversation was a striking table, taking centre stage in the courtyard, which featured six tabletop guests – miniature mannequins created especially by Brioni – outfitted in replicas from the Brioni collection, which had been reproduced in painstaking detail by the house’s master tailors at its Penne factory. Our dinner party also included six full-size Brioni-clad mannequins.
The table was styled and orchestrated by our interiors editor-at-large Benjamin Kempton and our entertaining director Melina Keays. For the occasion, Lobmeyr produced some oversized versions of its candy dish, designed by Oswald Haerdtl in 1925, which featured alongside smaller versions of the same piece. Porcelain by Augarten and silverware by Wiener Silber completed a tableau that paid tribute to exquisite tailoring and iconic Austrian design.
Originally featured in the August 2015 edition of Wallpaper* (W*197)