Louis Vuitton adds a new addition to its fragrance trunk
Étoile Filante is the latest addition to the house’s travel-inspired fragrances
As with all the fragrances in the Louis Vuitton catalogue, Étoile Filante is the work of Vuitton’s in-house perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, made in the secluded Vuttion fragrance house in Grasse but inspired by the scents and ingredients Belletrud discovered throughout his travels.
Étoile Filante’s keynote is osmanthus, a delicate white flower Belletrud first encountered in the Grasse laboratory of his own father who was also a perfumer. Years later, Belletrud came across the fruity-smelling flower during a trip to China. ‘At nightfall, all around the stalls in the flower market, this original, suave scent of osmanthus and magnolia would waft through the air,’ says Belletrud. ‘I was deeply moved by that magic, heady fragrance — pairing those two elements from nature seemed to me self-evident.’
Étoile Filante, like most fragrances in the Vuitton catalogue, achieves the recognisability factor that most scents strive for; a distinctive olfactory profile that makes it easy for its wearer to adopt it as an signature scent.
While it’s noticeably original, Étoile Filante is ultimately a bright, delicate fragrance that is subtle enough to be appealing to almost any scent palette. It’s a quality not shared by all of the scents in the Vuitton collection, like Ombre Nomade or Nuit de Feu which, dominated by potent, heady notes that make them more niche in their appeal.
Étoile Filante’s subtly fruity elements of the osmanthus and magnolia blend are heightened by notes of apricot and cassis. While the keynotes’ floral character is accentuated by a touch of Grasse jasmine obtained using Vuitton’s unique CO2 extraction technique.
The result is a slightly sweet and almost powdery scent, a combination that could easily tip it into the realm of old-fashioned. Yet, in the hands of Belletrud, Étoile Filante candied floral character is made distinctly modern and fresh enough to make it a welcomed New Year addition to the house’s collection. §