'Never Again': the life and influence of Judy Blame at the ICA
Judy Blame is a man of many fabulous hats: accessories designer, fashion stylist, celebrity confidante, ahead of the curve underground icon. He was doing 'art direction' before it was a thing, creating the look for Björk's Debut album (1992), and draping Massive Attack in fake Rolexes and Kangols for their Blue Lines era. He's the guy who encouraged Boy George into headgear.
Now, London's ICA (an institute known for championing the radical, unexpected and malapropos side of contemporary art) presents the first major exhibition on the British iconoclastic powerhouse.
'Never Again' is a retrospective of Blame's life and works, including his outlandish, safety-pin tangled jewellery, his found-art photomontages and his mixed-media fashion sculpture. 'Although Judy is primarily recognised for his jewellery, he has been a polymath and an inspiration to artists past, present and hopefully future,' curator Matt Williams tells Wallpaper*. 'His ability to respond to the detritus of the everyday and transform it into an object or an image that touches upon pertinent social and political themes of its time, is a rare talent.' A series of vitrines ('Black Magic', 'Filthy Rich', 'Old Rope') collate this vast and eclectic array of work thematically, organising Blame's colourful creative process into comprehensible tableau.
'The layout for this display could easily be the surface of my desk when I’m working on a number of jobs simultaneously,' Blame writes on the vitrine entitled 'Beautiful Chaos'. 'This is an illustration of my working process and inspirations – from sketchbook to editorial and then through to the final product.'
As well as this intimate look under the surface of Blame's unique aesthetic, 'Never Again' is complemented by a parallel group show in the upstairs gallery. 'Artistic Differences' considers Blame's significance on the wider fashion and jewellery stages, featuring contemporary work from the likes of Mark Lebon, 'infamous night-clubber' Trojan and Juergen Teller. Through his peers, and by seeing Blame's work for the first time thoroughly represented in a gallery setting, a picture begins to emerge of the art-maverick's far-reaching influence, as well as his inspirations, achievements and services to style.
Installation view of the ‘Never Again’ retrospective at London’s Institute of Contemporary Arts in 2016.
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
Left, Cheap Queen Collage, 1994. Right, Fragile Collage, 2008.
Left, Judy Blame.
Left, Royal Mail collages featuring a collection by Hussein Chalayan, 1992. Right, camouflage jewellery by Judy Blame
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
INFORMATION
’Judy Blame: Never Again’ and ’Artistic Differences’ are on view until 4 September. For more information, visit the ICA website
ADDRESS
ICA
The Mall
London, SW1Y 5AH
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Elly Parsons is the Digital Editor of Wallpaper*, where she oversees Wallpaper.com and its social platforms. She has been with the brand since 2015 in various roles, spending time as digital writer – specialising in art, technology and contemporary culture – and as deputy digital editor. She was shortlisted for a PPA Award in 2017, has written extensively for many publications, and has contributed to three books. She is a guest lecturer in digital journalism at Goldsmiths University, London, where she also holds a masters degree in creative writing. Now, her main areas of expertise include content strategy, audience engagement, and social media.
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekFrom sumo wrestling to Singaporean fare, medieval manuscripts to magnetic exhibitions, the Wallpaper* team have traversed the length and breadth of culture in the British capital this week
-
Doshi Retreat at the Vitra Campus is both a ‘first’ and a ‘last’ for the great Balkrishna DoshiDoshi Retreat opens at the Vitra campus, honouring the Indian modernist’s enduring legacy and joining the Swiss design company’s existing, fascinating collection of pavilions, displays and gardens
-
Issey Miyake’s shape-shifting A/W 2025 collection transforms the paper bag into something you can wear‘Can anything be considered a garment, as long as it’s on the body?’ says creative director Satoshi Kondo of the art-infused collection, which sees the everyday reimagined
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekFrom sumo wrestling to Singaporean fare, medieval manuscripts to magnetic exhibitions, the Wallpaper* team have traversed the length and breadth of culture in the British capital this week
-
Viewers are cast as voyeurs in Tai Shani’s crimson-hued London exhibitionBritish artist Tai Shani creates mystical other worlds through sculpture, performance and film. Step inside at Gathering
-
Who are the nine standout artists that shaped Frieze London 2025?Amid the hectic Frieze London schedule, many artists were showcasing extraordinary work this year. Here are our favourites
-
Doc’n Roll Festival returns with a new season of underground music filmsNow in its twelfth year, the grassroots festival continues to platform subcultural stories and independent filmmakers outside the mainstream
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors' picks of the weekThe London office of Wallpaper* had a very important visitor this week. Elsewhere, the team traverse a week at Frieze
-
Chantal Joffe paints the truth of memory and motherhood in a new London showA profound chronicler of the intimacies of the female experience, Chantal Joffe explores the elemental truth of family dynamics for a new exhibition at Victoria Miro
-
Leo Costelloe turns the kitchen into a site of fantasy and uneaseFor Frieze week, Costelloe transforms everyday domesticity into something intimate, surreal and faintly haunted at The Shop at Sadie Coles
-
Can surrealism be erotic? Yes if women can reclaim their power, says a London exhibition‘Unveiled Desires: Fetish & The Erotic in Surrealism, 1924–Today’ at London’s Richard Saltoun gallery examines the role of desire in the avant-garde movement