In bloom: Eddie Borgo’s flowering A/W 2015 bijou collection and debut bag offering
Eddie Borgo's A/W 2015 jewellery collection, inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe's photographs of roses, is striking proof of the maturation the New York designer has experienced since starting out in 2008.
The organic shapes, a deconstruction of the most romantic of flowers, are not what most would immediately associate Borgo's usual angular aesthetic with. But his approach has evolved, he explains, 'as our customer base has gotten a little bit older. She's buying fine jewellery now, whereas she used to buy costume jewellery.' This collection could easily fool his devotees: though deceivingly fine in appearance these silver, gold and rose-gold plated pieces are still costume jewellery in essence.
What has stayed firmly in place over the years is Borgo's continuing fascination with beautifully engineered objects from the 1950s and 1960s. 'Furniture, jewellery of course, leather goods and handbags, the automobile industry,' he lists. 'I'm constantly scouring the flea markets to find little objects, whether it's the perfect pen holder, little cigarette box… You look at all the little minutiae, all the little engineering details - you just don't see that today.'
Borgo set out to recreate those same elements and attention to detail in his debut luxury handbag collection for A/W 2015, which developed into a engineering feat of light-weight aluminum frames with fuss-free fastenings and multiple compartments and carrying options. All executed in powdered leathers of jet black, soft pink, mauve and dove grey hues.
'I'm a very inquisitive person,' says Borgo, explaining the thoughtful process that preceded drawing these designs. 'I asked all of my girlfriends: what do you like about your bags, what don't you like? The bags were always too heavy, they were very difficult to get in and out of, and there weren't enough ways to hold the bag.'
Borgo is clearly satisfied with the result, and the response to the craftsmanship of the bags thus far. 'We've gotten it to a new crescendo now, and I think the bags couldn't come at a better time. They're really coming into our brand DNA at a perfect moment for us in our growth.'
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Remembering Richard Serra (1938-2024), American art’s man of steel
American artist Richard Serra, whose vast sculptures transformed landscapes around the world, has died aged 85
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Architectural gardens around the world to soothe the soul
From small domestic gardens, to nature reserves, urban interventions and local parks, here are some of the finest green projects that place nature at their heart
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Corfu hotel Domes Miramare redefines beachfront bliss
Make like Jackie O at Corfu hotel Domes Miramare, a property with contemporary luxury and echoes of 1960s glamour in spades
By Bridget Downing Published
-
Bernard James’ flora-inspired diamonds mark ten years of Dover Street Market New York
Bernard James’ jewellerydebuting at Dover Street Market features rings, earrings and necklaces inspired by blossoming flora
By Alfredo Mineo Published
-
Seaman Schepps reveals offbeat new jewellery and homeware
Seaman Schepps celebrates 120 years of eclectic design codes and rare stones in a beautiful new jewellery collection
By Hannah Silver Published
-
FoundRae’s Dallas, Texas residency gains steam
Jewellery label FoundRae’s Dallas pop-up at The Conservatory in Highland Park Village combines medallions, charms and homeware alongside vintage objects
By Pei-Ru Keh Published
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal pieces
A host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Reed Krakoff ushers John Hardy jewellery into a new era, and refreshes its New York store
The ‘Spear’ jewellery collection riffs on John Hardy’s signature handwoven chain, while the boutique nods to the brand’s Balinese heritage
By Pei-Ru Keh Published
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a moment
We've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Eternity rings for the modern couple
Eternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Offbeat forms meet precious materials in Ana Khouri’s high jewellery
Jewellery designer Ana Khouri is named one of the Wallpaper* USA 300, as we celebrate creative America. Here we discover her new high jewellery
By Hannah Silver Published