High jewellery can, by its nature, be a little formal, a reputation that one American brand has been steadily shrugging off over the last two decades. Established in the US in 2005 by Idit and Moti Ferder (featured in the Wallpaper* USA 400 guide to creative America), Lugano has been championing surprising materials and unfussy silhouettes since its inception. At their atelier/workshop in Newport Beach, California, the husband-and wife duo focus on creating unique, one-of-a-kind pieces that encapsulate an individual.
‘I began my journey as a diamond cutter 34 years ago, immersing myself in every aspect of cutting, sourcing and gemology,’ says Moti, who marries his jewellery experience with his wife’s branding and operational expertise. ‘In 2005, we moved to the US from Israel with the goal of establishing our retail brand, and I dedicated myself to designing and crafting wearable works of art that inspire our clients.’
This emphasis on design means a celebration of unexpected materials: metals more commonly associated with the motoring and aerospace industry, such as titanium and carbonium, join more everyday items including rubber and ceramics. Spectacular stones, from pink and blue diamonds to Paraibas and emeralds, eschew the traditional round cut, instead rethought as heart-cut diamonds or interlinked half-moon baguettes that hang, suspended, on titanium chains, or sink sublimely into glossy ceramics.
‘At Lugano, we envision jewellery that seamlessly integrates into today’s lifestyle,’ Moti adds. ‘Despite their distinction as high jewellery, our pieces are designed to be worn often. While high jewellery is traditionally reserved for special occasions, we find that our clients value versatile pieces they can wear more frequently. Moreover, we believe that people want to be inspired by new designs that reflect how they want to present themselves to the world.’
The relatively relaxed aesthetic and easy-to-wear fluidity of Lugano’s jewellery belies a sharply technical acumen honed over years of experience. ‘Execution is crucial,’ says Moti. ‘It involves handing over the design to the right master jeweller, who can interpret the vision while infusing their unique expertise to enhance the design, thus taking it to greater heights.
This article appears in the August 2024 issue of Wallpaper*, available to download free when you sign up to our daily newsletter, in print on newsstands from 4 July, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today
-
Hanker after a 1970s supercar? The Encor Series 1 elevates the Lotus Esprit to a new levelThis limited-edition remastering of the dramatic wedge-shaped Lotus Esprit stops at nothing to improve and enhance the original without losing sight of its analogue excellence
-
A new photo book takes you behind the scenes of some of cinema's most beloved films, from 'Fargo' to 'Charlie's Angels'Set decorator Lauri Gaffin captures Hollywood's quieter moments in an arresting new book
-
This sculptural London seafood restaurant was shaped by ‘the emotions of the sea’In Hanover Square, Mazarine pairs a bold, pearlescent interior with modern coastal cuisine led by ‘bistronomy’ pioneer chef Thierry Laborde
-
From Cubism to Pop, artists’ jewellery goes on show in Palm Beach‘Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection’ at the Norton Museum of Art showcases key pieces from an impressive collection
-
Wallpaper* Design Awards 2025: JB Blunk rings are sculptures for the handThe JB Blunk Estate has partnered with J Hannah on the reproduction of four special rings
-
Tom Brady’s watch collection is for sale at Sotheby’s: here are the highlights‘The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures from Tom Brady’ goes on sale at Sotheby’s New York on 10 December
-
Shinola’s Elijah McCoy pocket watch pays homage to the pioneering locomotive engineerShinola continues its Great American series with the Elijah McCoy Mechanic 45mm pocket watch
-
The American watch brands to know nowFrom Autodromo to JN Shapiro, American watch brands are having a moment
-
Bernard James’ flora-inspired diamonds mark ten years of Dover Street Market New YorkBernard James’ jewellerydebuting at Dover Street Market features rings, earrings and necklaces inspired by blossoming flora
-
Seaman Schepps reveals offbeat new jewellery and homewareSeaman Schepps celebrates 120 years of eclectic design codes and rare stones in a beautiful new jewellery collection
-
FoundRae’s Dallas, Texas residency gains steamJewellery label FoundRae’s Dallas pop-up at The Conservatory in Highland Park Village combines medallions, charms and homeware alongside vintage objects
