Lugano high jewellery pieces are versatile and informal

Left, jacket, £445, by Theory. Top, £225, by Vince. White gold, red ceramic and diamond earrings; white gold, carbonium and diamond cuff, both price on request, by Lugano. Right, shirt, £215, by Theory. Skirt, £78; tights, £55, both by Wolford. Yellow gold, ceramic, ebony and diamond ring; yellow gold, rubber and diamond bracelet, both price on request, by Lugano. Fashion: Jason Hughes

(Image credit: Theresa Marx)

High jewellery can, by its nature, be a little formal, a reputation that one American brand has been steadily shrugging off over the last two decades. Established in the US in 2005 by Idit and Moti Ferder (featured in the Wallpaper* USA 400 guide to creative America), Lugano has been championing surprising materials and unfussy silhouettes since its inception. At their atelier/workshop in Newport Beach, California, the husband-and wife duo focus on creating unique, one-of-a-kind pieces that encapsulate an individual.

‘I began my journey as a diamond cutter 34 years ago, immersing myself in every aspect of cutting, sourcing and gemology,’ says Moti, who marries his jewellery experience with his wife’s branding and operational expertise. ‘In 2005, we moved to the US from Israel with the goal of establishing our retail brand, and I dedicated myself to designing and crafting wearable works of art that inspire our clients.’

woman wearing jewellery — Jacket, £300, by Theory. Top, £50, by Falke. Blue titanium and diamond necklace, price on request, by Lugano. *Fashion: Jason Hughes*

This emphasis on design means a celebration of unexpected materials: metals more commonly associated with the motoring and aerospace industry, such as titanium and carbonium, join more everyday items including rubber and ceramics. Spectacular stones, from pink and blue diamonds to Paraibas and emeralds, eschew the traditional round cut, instead rethought as heart-cut diamonds or interlinked half-moon baguettes that hang, suspended, on titanium chains, or sink sublimely into glossy ceramics.

‘At Lugano, we envision jewellery that seamlessly integrates into today’s lifestyle,’ Moti adds. ‘Despite their distinction as high jewellery, our pieces are designed to be worn often. While high jewellery is traditionally reserved for special occasions, we find that our clients value versatile pieces they can wear more frequently. Moreover, we believe that people want to be inspired by new designs that reflect how they want to present themselves to the world.’

The relatively relaxed aesthetic and easy-to-wear fluidity of Lugano’s jewellery belies a sharply technical acumen honed over years of experience. ‘Execution is crucial,’ says Moti. ‘It involves handing over the design to the right master jeweller, who can interpret the vision while infusing their unique expertise to enhance the design, thus taking it to greater heights.

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This article appears in the August 2024 issue of Wallpaper*, available to download free when you sign up to our daily newsletter, in print on newsstands from 4 July, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today

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Hannah Silver is a writer and editor with over 20 years of experience in journalism, spanning national newspapers and independent magazines. Currently Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles for print and digital, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury since joining in 2019.