A new book explores how Eddie Plein’s grills defined a cultural moment in hip-hop
‘Mouth Full of Golds’ traces Eddie Plein's mastery of a golden era of dentistry
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‘For me, this book shows how wide Eddie’s influence has spread and the culture of grills at large,’ says film director Lyle Lindgren, speaking on the publication of Mouth Full of Golds Re(Edition). ‘This is an accessory that has transcended cities, musical genres and art forms.’
The book is an illustrated history of Eddie Plein, who spearheaded a golden era of dentistry. The music, fashion and photography industries were seduced by Plein’s grills, loved by many, including Michèle Lamy, Goldie, Mike Tyson and Dolly Cohen.
Quickly, Plein’s grills transcended dentistry, coming to define a significant cultural moment in the history of hip-hop. ‘It was hard to see the significance,’ Plein says now. ‘You’re living it, it was just business. We had a ball out there in all of these different cities, but it was still a hustle; we were trying to make ends meet. Of course, we knew we were making a mark, we were at the top in NYC and then we did it again in Atlanta; guys like Luda, Big Boi all sneaking in through the back at the shop. We were right there when it was popping. But the bigger mark on culture, that didn’t become apparent till much later – much much later – when you could see all these guys making teeth across the world on things like Instagram. It really dawned on me, like wow! This thing of ours really spread around the world.’
A$AP Rocky, London 2016
The book, an updated version of the original, which was self-published in 2021, is accompanied by a feature-length documentary that will be viewable at soon-to-be-announced screenings around the world. Both bring together the voices that helped define the movement, from A$AP Ferg and A$AP Rocky to Marc Jacobs and Janette Beckman.
Nas and Kelis at Famous Eddie's Gold Teeth, Atlanta 2004
‘I think the customisable element has always made this an interesting medium for people to express themselves, both the customers and the grillmakers,’ says Lindgren on the mass appeal. ‘It gives people the chance to make something unique to their smile, to their style and taste. And for the grillmakers, it’s a miniature form of sculpture that comes with its own set of challenges and keeps evolving. And so with all of this mind, it was only natural to end up with such a wide range of contributors and perspectives.’
Goldie, Queens 2015
Plein adds: ‘You have to remember I have waxed thousands of teeth, from New York, Alabama, Connecticut, Memphis to Atlanta. My brother Lando was doing the same in Miami and still is; we were just two of many. Now you have people in London, Tokyo, Paris, all creating, for many many different people. In my day, I had everyone from the hustlers to the kids from the historical Black colleges like Morehouse, to Allen Iverson and MF DOOM (but I didn’t know it was him). You just never knew who was gonna come through the door.’
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Eddie wearing Gianni Versace Mod S64 Sunglasses, Atlanta 1998
Famous Eddie's Gold Teeth, Atlanta
Hannah Silver is a writer, editor and author with over 20 years of experience in journalism, spanning national newspapers and independent magazines. Currently Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles for print and digital, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury since joining in 2019.