As far as inconspicuous status symbols go, signet rings are discreet signs of a person’s family history and standing. Or, they used to be: nowadays signet styles can still display heritage, but they are increasingly being worn by men and women for purely aesthetic reasons too, whether as an accessory or as a significant men's engagement ring.
Symbolism is still a defining characteristic of modern signet iterations, as in Dior’s Lucky Rings set with bees, clovers, lily-of-the-valley and stars inspired by Christian Dior’s well-documented superstitions. But the history aspect is not imperative, as with Dina Kamal’s elegant, stripped-back geometric shapes.
At Rebus Signet Rings, an award-winning engraving workshop in Hatton Garden, clients hankering after a bit of wearable history can peruse Fairbairn’s Book of crests of the families of Great Britain and Ireland, first published in 1859, of which the workshop owns fourth editions from 1892.
Rebus ring in 18ct yellow gold with blue sapphires
Its worn-down pages are testament to the great, millennia-old tradition of signet rings as a signature or seal for official documents. ‘We’ve seen the demand for signet rings go up’, says Emmet Smith, director of Rebus, ‘because people now realise that signet rings are not just about a family crest, but that they can be customised as preferred.’
Rebus likes mixing the historical with the contemporary take, and so has just launched an updated version of the Keeper ring, a gem-studded band designed to follow the shape of classic signet rings, so that they may be stacked.
The Keeper style, says Smith, ‘is inspired by a long history of companion rings that harks back to the Georgian era, when Queen Charlotte – a tastemaker, wore a band set with diamonds above her engagement ring, inscribed with her wedding date.’
Then as now, the Keeper ring served as a token. Says Smith: ‘The ring protected her engagement stone, establishing the Keeper ring as an enduring symbol of protection.’
Rebus rings in 18ct yellow gold (right) and rose gold (left) with rubies
INFORMATION
For more information, visit the Rebus website
-
Highlights from the transporting Cruise 2026 showsThe Cruise 2026 season began yesterday with a Chanel show at Lake Como, heralding the start of a series of jet-setting, destination runway shows from fashion’s biggest houses
-
Behind the design of national pavilions in Venice: three studios to knowDesigning the British, Swiss and Mexican national pavilions at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025 are three outstanding studios to know before you go
-
Premium patisserie Naya is Mayfair’s latest sweet spotHeritage meets opulence at Naya bakery in Mayfair, London. With interiors by India Hicks and Anna Goulandris, the patisserie looks good enough to eat
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hitWhat started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a momentWe've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
-
Eternity rings for the modern coupleEternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
-
Hair jewellery to covet and collectToday’s hair jewellery is both practical and pretty. We're pinning our hopes on these simple and elegant accessories
