There’s hidden meanings pinned to Lin Cheung’s carved brooches

‘It’s an intended as a throwaway remark’ says British jeweller and lecturer Lin Cheung of ‘It’s a Jewellery Thing’ – the name of her latest exhibition at east London’s Gallery SO. Cheung is known for her reinterpretation of traditional jewellery forms, such as lockets and pearl necklaces, and her Delayed Reactions, a series of carved brooches presented as part of her latest exhibition, is particularly on point.
‘The series reflects the mixed emotions I feel about current affairs,’ Cheung explains of the brooches. She has modelled the pieces on political statement pins – those ubiquitous plastic badges seen attached to backpacks or lapels to convey political or cultural messages.
They are imagined in a series of eclectic and unexpected semi-precious materials and stones, including marble, howlite (which is often dyed to resemble turqouise), rock crystal and pink opal. A rose quartz brooch is named Rose Tinted. A rock crystal design, which resembles a circle of smashed glass, is titled Troubled Times.
Cheung also uses fabricated materials including Corian and howlite, and stripes of glittery nail varnish to play with viewer perception. This trickery is the jeweller’s way of commenting on today’s political climate.
Elsewhere, a Lapis lazuli brooch, with a sad smiley face formed from gold stars, is her comment on Britain’s referendum.
The carved stone brooches, Cheung says, presented a slow, unpredictable way of working – in direct contrast, of course, to the throwaway pin badges which they reflect. They naturally muted palette of her chosen materials, in direct contrast to the typical graphic design of slogan pins, also held a particular attraction.
'Delayed Reactions - Rose Tinted' brooch in carved rose quartz and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Nail Your Colours – Green, White, Violet' brooch in rock crystal, nail varnish and 18ct gold
'Delayed Reactions - Troubled Times' brooch in rock crystal and 18ct yellow gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Evasive' two-sided brooch in Belgian black marble, howlite and 14ct gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Slightly Sad' brooch in lapis lazuli and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung
'Delayed Reactions - Crystal Clear' brooch in rock crystal and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung
INFORMATION
’Lin Cheung: It’s a Jewellery Thing’ is on view until 25 March. For more information, visit the Gallery SO website and the Lin Cheung website
ADDRESS
Gallery SO
92 Brick Lane
London E1 6RL
Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.
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