Lin Cheung at Gallery SO

(Image credit: Lin Cheung)

‘It’s an intended as a throwaway remark’ says British jeweller and lecturer Lin Cheung of ‘It’s a Jewellery Thing’ – the name of her latest exhibition at east London’s Gallery SO. Cheung is known for her reinterpretation of traditional jewellery forms, such as lockets and pearl necklaces, and her Delayed Reactions, a series of carved brooches presented as part of her latest exhibition, is particularly on point.

‘The series reflects the mixed emotions I feel about current affairs,’ Cheung explains of the brooches. She has modelled the pieces on political statement pins – those ubiquitous plastic badges seen attached to backpacks or lapels to convey political or cultural messages.

They are imagined in a series of eclectic and unexpected semi-precious materials and stones, including marble, howlite (which is often dyed to resemble turqouise), rock crystal and pink opal. A rose quartz brooch is named Rose Tinted. A rock crystal design, which resembles a circle of smashed glass, is titled Troubled Times.

Cheung also uses fabricated materials including Corian and howlite, and stripes of glittery nail varnish to play with viewer perception. This trickery is the jeweller’s way of commenting on today’s political climate.

Elsewhere, a Lapis lazuli brooch, with a sad smiley face formed from gold stars, is her comment on Britain’s referendum.

The carved stone brooches, Cheung says, presented a slow, unpredictable way of working – in direct contrast, of course, to the throwaway pin badges which they reflect. They naturally muted palette of her chosen materials, in direct contrast to the typical graphic design of slogan pins, also held a particular attraction.

Lin Cheung at Gallery SO — 'Delayed Reactions - Rose Tinted' brooch in carved rose quartz and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung

Lin Cheung Gallery So Exhibition gallery — 'Delayed Reactions - Slightly Sad' brooch in lapis lazuli and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung

brooch in rock crystal and 18ct gold, Lin Cheung — 'Delayed Reactions - Crystal Clear' brooch in rock crystal and 18ct gold, by Lin Cheung

INFORMATION

’Lin Cheung: It’s a Jewellery Thing’ is on view until 25 March. For more information, visit the Gallery SO website and the Lin Cheung website

ADDRESS

Gallery SO
92 Brick Lane
London E1 6RL

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Hannah Silver is a writer and editor with over 20 years of experience in journalism, spanning national newspapers and independent magazines. Currently Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles for print and digital, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury since joining in 2019.