Punk meets tradition in Jacqueline Rabun’s new jewellery for Georg Jensen
The classic chain is rethought in new jewellery collection, ‘Reflect’
Jacqueline Rabun has drawn on the idiosyncrasies of Nineties London subculture in a new jewellery collection for Georg Jensen, ‘Reflect.’ Sterling silver is teased into sculptural links in the rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets of the collection, in a contemporary rethink of the classic chain.
‘The collection was inspired by my early work, from a series titled ‘Raw Elegance’,’ the designer tells us. ‘It was designed in the early Nineties when I established my studio in London. I was looking back and reflecting on my journey and how the experience of living in a multicultural society and the subcultures that existed during that time inspired my work, including punk.’
Jewellery’s ability to act as a means of expression is referenced in the collection’s name, encapsulating the nuances of an era which encouraged self-promotion. It is a tribute which is reflected in the curved and chunky links which loop together to form thickly drawn silhouettes. Undulating waves form fluid bracelets, or encompass a single yoke in a swirl of silver in minimalist rings.
‘My dream was to create a modern chain design incorporating all that has played a role in forming my design language and, most importantly, the organic and sculptural world of Georg Jensen,’ adds Rabun. ‘The beauty of self expression and individuality are important in my work. Here, my main objective was to create a unique gender fluid jewellery collection for Georg Jensen.’
For Georg Jensen creative director Ragnar Hjartarson, the collection intertwines this edgy aesthetic with the traditional artistry at the heart of the brand, an ethos which comes to life in the campaign shot in a historical Copenhagen location and featuring Prince Felix of Denmark and model Fiona Reventlow-Grinling. ‘This beautiful collection gives the classic chain a brand- new and contemporary look, all while retaining the superior and expert craftsmanship Georg Jensen is known for,’ he says.
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.
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