Air time: Georg Jensen breathes new life into Nina Koppel’s Fusion design
- (opens in new tab)
- (opens in new tab)
- (opens in new tab)
- Sign up to our newsletter Newsletter

Nina Koppel’s Fusion ring marked a key moment for Georg Jensen jewellery on its debut in 2000, signalling a departure from the Danish design house’s silver tradition for a first flirtation with gold. Stacking rings are a mainstay of contemporary jewellery design but Koppel was ahead of the game with Fusion – a modular jewellery system comprised of an undulating set of rings, in rose, yellow or white gold. Beautifully engineered to fit seamlessly together, Fusion presents a jigsaw of options for the wearer and in it an element of personalisation. It’s still one of Georg Jensen’s most popular designs.
Now, on the eve of its twentieth anniversary, an updated Fusion collection is launched – and it has grown, with bangles, pendants and earrings. This new incarnation also reminds us Koppel is one of the unseen greats of jewellery design.
After studying textile design at the Kunsthåndværkerskolen, Denmark’s School of Arts and Crafts, Koppel set up a workshop in central Copenhagen, where she collaborated with other designers, focusing on interior furnishings as well as textiles. Her 47-hue ‘Tonus’ design for Kvadrat, which she created for the textile specialist in the Sixties, was one of the first elastic-backed woollen fabrics. It was initially used on the Jørgen Rasmussen office chair.
There’s a strong sense of Koppel’s textile work in Fusion. ‘The core of the Fusion designs is the fluid lines that signify them,’ says Georg Jensen chief creative officer Nicholas Manville. ‘It was important to keep a strong sense of movement as the foundation on which to create the new pieces.’ The original designs were engineered as a locking system, and as such the silhouettes were rigid, with minimal space between the pieces to make a whole.
The new collection stays true to Koppel’s original design – which she devised in 1987 – with lighter, elongated lines. Rather than add something new, Manville and his team have toyed with the organic origins of Fusion. By creating spaces between the wave lines the focus is on the outlines themselves. Or, as Manville puts it: ‘The new pieces are almost an animation of what happens before the elements come together – or fuse.’
The Fusion bangle in yellow gold, rose gold and with centre white gold pavé, is new to Georg Jensen this year
Openwork earhoops in white gold have also been added to the Fusion by Georg Jensen collection
This year’s Fusion open pendant in yellow gold and white gold pavé, by Georg Jensen
INFORMATION
georgjensen.com (opens in new tab)
Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.
-
Feast your eyes: Nadine Ghosn brings cutlery-inspired jewellery to the table
Nadine Ghosn’s Youtensils jewellery collection brings a playfulness to the functional forms of the humble fork, spoon and disposable straw
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Former builders’ yard transformed into a home and studio by Studio MacLean
This new project, a former builders’ yard in the Cotswolds, by Studio MacLean, showcases the design and build skills of Jason and Jenny Rose MacLean
By Jonathan Bell • Published
-
Herman Miller presents Alexander Girard posters from his panels designs
You can now buy Alexander Girard posters, inspired by his decorative panels, thanks to a new Herman Miller collection
By Pei-Ru Keh • Published
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal pieces
A host of jewellers have given us a peek at the jewellery which has brought them solace this year
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Eternity rings for the modern couple
Eternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a moment
We've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Alternative engagement rings with an edge
As the sales of engagement rings sky-rocket during lockdown, enjoy our off-kilter curation of edgy and unconventional engagement rings
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Hair jewellery to covet and collect
Today’s hair jewellery is both practical and pretty. We're pinning our hopes on these simple and elegant accessories
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Silver jewellery takes on sensual forms in the Georg Jensen Arc collection
Georg Jensen creative director Ragnar Hjartarson rethinks sculptural shapes in the new Arc pieces
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
CryptoPunks come to life on Tiffany & Co pendants
Tiffany & Co has partnered with blockchain infrastructure company Chain to create custom pendants and NFTiffs
By Hannah Silver • Last updated
-
Andreas Kronthaler’s costume jewellery for Vivienne Westwood is fun, flirty and fabulous
Andreas Kronthaler’s new jewellery draws on romantic and theatrical motifs
By Hannah Silver • Last updated