Costume jewellery takes a dramatic form in the hands of creative director Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. The collection, composed of statement earrings and romantic necklaces, takes its inspiration from the natural world, translating a juxtaposition of materials into flouncing, flirtatious forms.
‘All the world’s a stage – costume jewellery helps you be seen,’ says Kronthaler of the sensual pieces. ‘It’s a celebration. You can make an occasion out of any situation in this jewellery.’
Resin beads are coaxed into pearl-shaped silhouettes for pretty pastel necklaces and earrings, while paper beads become shells in earrings and a tiara. Design codes of the house run throughout the collection, with Westwood and Kronthaler’s beloved heart motif drawn in crochet brass.
‘These pieces should be worn to frame your personality,’ Kronthaler says. ‘For example, the best thing at the [Queen’s 2022] Jubilee was Diana Ross’ earrings, and of course her Royal Majesty’s green ensemble.’
The jewellery is a natural extension to this year’s autumn/winter Vivienne Westwood collection, which saw Kronthaler play with theatrical proportions, emphasising tailoring’s sleek lines in a play on classic design. His tribute to theatre itself took shape in religious-inspired nods to icons, and made for clothes that celebrate volume.
‘I want to make an elegant tribute to the world of theatre. It’s there where everything is possible. We need space where people express themselves freely without censorship. If you lose that, you don’t have culture,’ Kronthaler said of the joyful spirit behind the pieces. ‘Art is an imitation of life. It stands outside time. It’s more about making clothes than fashion. I wanted to do something noble and formal. To make a moving painting – a picture come to life in order to seduce the mind through the eyes. You discover the truth through working. You learn something from it. Clothes are able to mirror your inner being, whether it is happiness, harmony, fear, kindness, anger, respect. But more than any other quality, I am looking for lightness.’
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