Costume jewellery takes a dramatic form in the hands of creative director Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. The collection, composed of statement earrings and romantic necklaces, takes its inspiration from the natural world, translating a juxtaposition of materials into flouncing, flirtatious forms.
‘All the world’s a stage – costume jewellery helps you be seen,’ says Kronthaler of the sensual pieces. ‘It’s a celebration. You can make an occasion out of any situation in this jewellery.’
Resin beads are coaxed into pearl-shaped silhouettes for pretty pastel necklaces and earrings, while paper beads become shells in earrings and a tiara. Design codes of the house run throughout the collection, with Westwood and Kronthaler’s beloved heart motif drawn in crochet brass.
‘These pieces should be worn to frame your personality,’ Kronthaler says. ‘For example, the best thing at the [Queen’s 2022] Jubilee was Diana Ross’ earrings, and of course her Royal Majesty’s green ensemble.’
The jewellery is a natural extension to this year’s autumn/winter Vivienne Westwood collection, which saw Kronthaler play with theatrical proportions, emphasising tailoring’s sleek lines in a play on classic design. His tribute to theatre itself took shape in religious-inspired nods to icons, and made for clothes that celebrate volume.
‘I want to make an elegant tribute to the world of theatre. It’s there where everything is possible. We need space where people express themselves freely without censorship. If you lose that, you don’t have culture,’ Kronthaler said of the joyful spirit behind the pieces. ‘Art is an imitation of life. It stands outside time. It’s more about making clothes than fashion. I wanted to do something noble and formal. To make a moving painting – a picture come to life in order to seduce the mind through the eyes. You discover the truth through working. You learn something from it. Clothes are able to mirror your inner being, whether it is happiness, harmony, fear, kindness, anger, respect. But more than any other quality, I am looking for lightness.’
INFORMATION
-
Jeweller Ara Vartanian and rapper Swizz Beatz team up on a fusion of spiky silhouettes, sculptural forms and seductive gemsA pairing that's been in the works since 2019 – and finally we get to see the results
-
The new CLA brings Mercedes's all-electric know-how to a new market sectorMixing high tech moves with tremendous tactile qualities, the buttery smooth new Mercedes-Benz CLA is an electric winner. Wallpaper* drives across Denmark in a triumphant new car with a three-pointed star
-
Collagerie and Zara Home debut perfectly imperfect home accessoriesLucinda Chambers’ Collagerie collaborates with Zara Home on a collection that is an ode to the everyday
-
All eyes on Greek jewellery brand Lito as it launches bold new amulets to mark its 25 yearsStriking amulets, seductive stones and secret messages characterise Lito's striking new anniversary collection, an extension of its ‘Tu es Partout’ series
-
The best layering necklaces for an elevated yet casual lookHow to mix, match and stack jewellery for the ultimate high-energy, low-effort style
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hitWhat started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a momentWe've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
