Chaumet's modern new pearl jewellery

Pearls, pearls, pearls: Chaumet’s modern fine jewellery collection

A tiara from Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette jewellery collection

(Image credit: press)

The historical and the contemporary unite in Chaumet’s new ‘Joséphine Aigrette’ collection, which teases Akoya cultured pearls into arresting and modern silhouettes.

Pearls have long held a place in the house’s designs, and were a favourite of Empress Joséphine. Exceptional pearl pieces in the archives include Joséph Chaumet’s ‘Curvilinear’ tiara, circa 1930, as well as the ‘Bowknot’ corsage ornament he created in 1922.

‘The new pieces of the “Joséphine” pearls collection take their inspiration from all of these elements of our history,’ says Chaumet CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt. ‘Moreover, it’s important to remember that the pearl is also highly symbolic. Pearls symbolise love, prosperity, beauty, purity and female empowerment, which are all part of Chaumet’s codes.’

These new pieces balance pearls on geometric angles of diamonds in rings or earrings, or ride them on the crest of a glittering wave in a simply drawn tiara. The deep V of the silhouettes nods to the traditional form of an aigrette – or headdress — here embellished in pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds in a fine jewellery spin.

‘Tiaras are transformed as rings, with the new between-the-fingers “Joséphine” ring a delicate nod to the “Toi & Moi” design,’ adds Mansvelt. ‘The V and the pear shape highlight the characteristic Chaumet art of the line, but with a new dynamic that gives more movement to the pieces. Using a variety of settings – cut-down and claw – these pieces are punctuated with diamonds that almost seem suspended in the air.’

The collection intertwines this technicality with an inherent wearability: ‘The challenge was looking at pearls and reinventing them. Twisting classics and giving them a touch of modernity. By doing this, these pieces become suitable for many occasions; they can be worn alone or stacked and matched with the existing range. They can be the perfect memorable gift or the perfect bridal set. They are multifaceted jewels, much like Joséphine’s personality.’

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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.