The Lansdowne Club restaurant review - London, UK

It’s a sign of the times that London’s private clubs, long bastions for ambered traditions and starchy members, are rehauling their interiors and, frankly, being so public about it. Case in point is the Lansdowne Club – once part of the larger Lansdowne House before the latter was partially demolished in the early 1930s – which has just refurbished its art deco dining room and piano bar.

Architect and interior design studio Jestico + Whiles has added a fresh new gloss to what the club freely admits were under-performing and tired rooms. To whit: a layer of mood lighting courtesy of StudioFRACTAL, the better to show off the rich palette of warm colours, antique mirrors, glazed brass screens, and painstakingly restored coffered ceilings and silver leaf details in the ceiling. 

In the kitchen, executive chef Neil Ramsey works up a mod-European menu that includes a ballotine of smoked pheasant wrapped in pancetta and paired with apple and parsnip purée, and cèpe broth; and a comforting rhubarb semifreddo with mascarpone mousse and shortbread crumbs. Meanwhile, the bar features a piano rescued from the Queen Mary, no less, alongside a tipsy drinks menu that skirts from Marc Hebrart Premier Cru champagne to a Lansdowne Fashion that’s spiked with rum and chocolate orange bitters.