After an unforgivably long hiatus, Skye Gyngell – the Australian wunderkind who put glasshouse restaurant Petersham Nurseries on the map – has returned to the London dining scene. Spring, her new three-level perch in the refurbished 19th-century west wing of Somerset House, is a calm space, awash with light oak flooring and classic furnishings from Mario Bellini’s Cab chair to Arne Jacobson’s Mayor sofa- courtesy of London-based firm Stuart Forbes and Australian interior designer Briony Fitzgerald. In the kitchen, Gyngell harnesses her trademark love for uncomplicated cooking by way of gently treated seasonal produce. The opening menu skates between langoustines grilled with seaweed butter, porcini snuggling up against roasted turbot and bone marrow, and wildflower honeyed ice swirling with candied walnuts.